Cutting tools for ski building

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UJ
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Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:10 pm
Location: Ouray Colorado

Cutting tools for ski building

Post by UJ »

Hi,
First post here. We have a fully equipped millwork shop and building some skis. We have been doing the beveled edge on the shaper and the wood- epoxy- fiberglass cloth construction seems to destroy insert carbide cutters pretty quickly. Likewise we are trimming the pressed skis on a small bandsaw with a carbide impregnated blade (not carbide tipped) and 2 skis will wipe that out.
Would a metal cutting bandsaw blade do better?
For the shaper I am thinking thicker braised carbide or possibly diamond tooling?
Just curious what others are using.
Thanks,
UJ
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richie
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Re: Cutting tools for ski building

Post by richie »

UJ wrote:Hi,
First post here. We have a fully equipped millwork shop and building some skis. We have been doing the beveled edge on the shaper and the wood- epoxy- fiberglass cloth construction seems to destroy insert carbide cutters pretty quickly. Likewise we are trimming the pressed skis on a small bandsaw with a carbide impregnated blade (not carbide tipped) and 2 skis will wipe that out.
Would a metal cutting bandsaw blade do better?
For the shaper I am thinking thicker braised carbide or possibly diamond tooling?
Just curious what others are using.
Thanks,
UJ
Lots of us use bi-metal bandsaw blade, mine is 6-8 tpi variable tooth pitch and 1/2" deep. It will last 20 boards or more if I look after it. Vey tough!
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Got a tip. Really a fogger here for the bandsaw would be ideal I think, but crisco or vasaline wiped down the sidewall will lubricate the cutter bit. In big shops they are useing glycol in the rapid flash cutting machines and shapers.
UJ
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Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:10 pm
Location: Ouray Colorado

Post by UJ »

Thanks, all good ideas. I will try the bimetal bandsaw blade. That's what we use in the resaw and they are tough. Also not expensive
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richie
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Post by richie »

MontuckyMadman wrote:Got a tip. Really a fogger here for the bandsaw would be ideal I think, but crisco or vasaline wiped down the sidewall will lubricate the cutter bit. In big shops they are useing glycol in the rapid flash cutting machines and shapers.
brilliant idea , especially the fogger mist, I will try non oily lube that is water soluble and clean up nicely and that don't repel any further final finishes of pu spray or epoxy coats. Thanks Montucky great tip!
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Too much lube will make the blade slip off the wheel fyi.
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

I was told in boat building industry they use carbide tipped bandsaw blade specially for cutting fiberglass cost about hundred dollars.
blade I'm using not even bi-mental ....last iirc about six pairs before need to replace it
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UJ
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Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:10 pm
Location: Ouray Colorado

Post by UJ »

We had a full carbide tip in the 14" saw at one time and the problem on small saws like that is the blade breaks before the carbide wears out. The carbide impregnated blade has worked well for woodworking but 2 pair of skis wiped it out. Lennox offers a band saw lube that i think could just be applied with a spray bottle. I am going to order a couple of their bi-metal blades.

For the edge beveling I will play around with some heavy braised carbide cutters. I did a search here and found that laminate trimmers work well for this and for a few skis might be easier than the shaper.
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