Sidewall trouble shooting
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:20 am
Sidewall trouble shooting
hey all,
hope you all had a great summer and cant wait for the ski season to start. i know I can't.
I recently have been having some issues that make me very irritated. I have glued my sidewalls on to my unplanned cores with both 2p10 and gorilla glue. After that i thought i was set to put them through the planner but after i get the ski about half way planned the sidewalls start to pop off. now i have taken the time to re-glue the areas that seem to get loose to only have them pop off after a few times of going back through the planner.
I read about using epoxy as a sidewall and cast pouring it but would that be very brittle like glass?
Any Suggestions.
hope you all had a great summer and cant wait for the ski season to start. i know I can't.
I recently have been having some issues that make me very irritated. I have glued my sidewalls on to my unplanned cores with both 2p10 and gorilla glue. After that i thought i was set to put them through the planner but after i get the ski about half way planned the sidewalls start to pop off. now i have taken the time to re-glue the areas that seem to get loose to only have them pop off after a few times of going back through the planner.
I read about using epoxy as a sidewall and cast pouring it but would that be very brittle like glass?
Any Suggestions.
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
It seems like it's an art to plane with sidewalls on. I struggled with that for a long time before I had my CNC.
I always used epoxy to glue my sidewalls on, and made sure to flame the sidewalls before putting any epoxy on it. It's also key to make sure the core/sidewall is held down VERY well, especially at the tips. If it can vibrate at all, it will lift and destroy the sidewall.
What you need to have success: good adhesion, no vibration, sharp planer blades, and shallow passes.
Typically I would make it all the way to the last or second to last pass before it destroyed. If you're only making it halfway, you need to change your glue.
Lots of guys pour polyurethane sidewalls, there is a big thread about that. I would do that rather than epoxy, for the reason you stated - epoxy is too brittle.
I always used epoxy to glue my sidewalls on, and made sure to flame the sidewalls before putting any epoxy on it. It's also key to make sure the core/sidewall is held down VERY well, especially at the tips. If it can vibrate at all, it will lift and destroy the sidewall.
What you need to have success: good adhesion, no vibration, sharp planer blades, and shallow passes.
Typically I would make it all the way to the last or second to last pass before it destroyed. If you're only making it halfway, you need to change your glue.
Lots of guys pour polyurethane sidewalls, there is a big thread about that. I would do that rather than epoxy, for the reason you stated - epoxy is too brittle.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:20 am
thanks twizzstlye
i am going to switch over to epoxy for the next batch. i actually went back and put a caliper to the last core and had about one or two more passed left. i was looking at my jig and i think i may have skimped on the sand paper which is causing my core to not sit flat by the tips, which in the beginning i did not think would be a problem.
thanks for the help!
i am going to switch over to epoxy for the next batch. i actually went back and put a caliper to the last core and had about one or two more passed left. i was looking at my jig and i think i may have skimped on the sand paper which is causing my core to not sit flat by the tips, which in the beginning i did not think would be a problem.
thanks for the help!
I was profiling a core with UHMW sidewalls tonight with a router tray system they were epoxied to the core, I have had fairly good luck with this in the past, but tonight I dropped the router down too quick onto the edge of the sidewall and it busted it off of about half of the core so I cursed took a bong rip decided to try to hot glue the core back on and keep going, I did it and it worked great. So I was wondering if anyone has ever just hot glued UHMW sidewalls to the core before profiling instead of epoxy? will it effect the bond in the heated press?
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Yeah, I don't think it was the bong rip but the bong rip made me think you might be able to only hot glue the sidewalls on. I pressed the skis today seemed to be good, we'll see for sure tomorrow when I trim, and tune them. Hope to ski them mon or tues. Excited for sure.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Shouldn't be a problem, some companies only temporarily attach sidewalls to the core for layup (superglue, hot glue, double sided tape, etc). As long as the sidewalls stay on during profiling and layup, that's the only important part.
If its working for you, keep it up - but hot glue barely sticks to anything, let alone a plastic like UHMWPE. I would never trust it for profiling.
If its working for you, keep it up - but hot glue barely sticks to anything, let alone a plastic like UHMWPE. I would never trust it for profiling.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:20 am
thanks for all the suggestions. I was successful today with planning the core with the sidewalls completely intact. I flamed them and then used a little bit of entropy resin. I am going to try pour urethan sidewall on the next pair tomorrow.
I have used the router bridge setup before, after i figured out the planner i found that way to be a lot easier and smoother on the core.
I have used the router bridge setup before, after i figured out the planner i found that way to be a lot easier and smoother on the core.