Sorry, I didn't want to be mean or anything
once again, I've never test this, but I just wanted to add some explainations
I don't know where you guys live, but here, in France, snow falls often comes with wind. And wind move snow. So really often, during a climb, you can have to cross an icy slope to reach a more snowy area.
you can also use icy and old climbing tracks made by skiers, and if you have a wide splitbpoard, it can be quite tricky sometimes
anyway, everyone choose and use the toy he wants or needs
Hole patterns for split board?
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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petemorgan(pmoskico)
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:41 am
- Location: Tacoma, Washington, USA! USA!
- Contact:
I still have yet to press this split board.
Do you guys have any tips for actually inserting the T-nuts.
Is it okay if the inserts are a little shallow, or a little protruding? I am guessing that it is better to have them a little shallow, maybe even up to 1/16 inch would be okay? miller studio only sells .410 .375 .350 and then jumps to .225
I really need some of the in between to avoid being shallow or protruding.
I am guessing that protruding is going to lead to bad results, because then they may get pressed into the base and cause uneven surface on the base where you might be able to see the nut.
if the t-nut is shallow in the core, then the epoxy will most likely just fill it in?
dealing with T-inserts is next level for my ski building abilities. i donno how this is gonna turn out. hope this isnt another huge waste of time
and actually looking to some of the other options for T-nuts, it looks like quite a few T-nuts use a hex pattern bottom and have rivet in the outer diameter. I am guessing so the T-nut doesnt spin inside the board. maybe these Miller Studio T-nuts arent a good way to go?
Miller studio ones:
http://millerstudio.net/?wpsc-product=m ... 375-height
something i came across:
http://www.alpinecarving.com/insert.jpg
Do you guys have any tips for actually inserting the T-nuts.
Is it okay if the inserts are a little shallow, or a little protruding? I am guessing that it is better to have them a little shallow, maybe even up to 1/16 inch would be okay? miller studio only sells .410 .375 .350 and then jumps to .225
I really need some of the in between to avoid being shallow or protruding.
I am guessing that protruding is going to lead to bad results, because then they may get pressed into the base and cause uneven surface on the base where you might be able to see the nut.
if the t-nut is shallow in the core, then the epoxy will most likely just fill it in?
dealing with T-inserts is next level for my ski building abilities. i donno how this is gonna turn out. hope this isnt another huge waste of time
and actually looking to some of the other options for T-nuts, it looks like quite a few T-nuts use a hex pattern bottom and have rivet in the outer diameter. I am guessing so the T-nut doesnt spin inside the board. maybe these Miller Studio T-nuts arent a good way to go?
Miller studio ones:
http://millerstudio.net/?wpsc-product=m ... 375-height
something i came across:
http://www.alpinecarving.com/insert.jpg
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twizzstyle
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
I buy my inserts from Kam (SkiLab), which have magnetic caps.
My holes are cut so that the insert sits perfectly flush with the top of the core. If it sticks up even a little bit you'll get ugly bumps on your topsheet.
I cut my cores on my CNC router now, but prior to that I would mark the hole locations on the core, then use a 3/4" forstner bit to cut a wide hole at the right depth for the flange. Then I'd use a normal bit to cut the hole for the main bit through the core.
After epoxying the inserts in (I just use hobby epoxy), I epoxy in a short section of 3/4" dowel on the bottom of the flange. Once that's cured, I would sand the dowels down so it was totally flush.
(now that I do it all with CNC, I actually put the inserts in prior to profiling, then profile the core upside down so that cuts the dowels down)
Short version: its better to have your inserts shallow, than tall, but ideally they should be flush with the top of the core. That also ensures that you need the same length bolts (ignoring different requirements depending on the bindings)
My holes are cut so that the insert sits perfectly flush with the top of the core. If it sticks up even a little bit you'll get ugly bumps on your topsheet.
I cut my cores on my CNC router now, but prior to that I would mark the hole locations on the core, then use a 3/4" forstner bit to cut a wide hole at the right depth for the flange. Then I'd use a normal bit to cut the hole for the main bit through the core.
After epoxying the inserts in (I just use hobby epoxy), I epoxy in a short section of 3/4" dowel on the bottom of the flange. Once that's cured, I would sand the dowels down so it was totally flush.
(now that I do it all with CNC, I actually put the inserts in prior to profiling, then profile the core upside down so that cuts the dowels down)
Short version: its better to have your inserts shallow, than tall, but ideally they should be flush with the top of the core. That also ensures that you need the same length bolts (ignoring different requirements depending on the bindings)
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petemorgan(pmoskico)
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:41 am
- Location: Tacoma, Washington, USA! USA!
- Contact:
Twizz, do you think it is necessary to epoxy in the inserts? They are super snug in there. i had to hammer them in. im guessing they will be fine.
i like your idea of using a wide dowel to fill in the bottom then sand that down. that way you can get away with using the 7mm long t-nuts all the time and not have to mess around with different sizing t-nuts
i like your idea of using a wide dowel to fill in the bottom then sand that down. that way you can get away with using the 7mm long t-nuts all the time and not have to mess around with different sizing t-nuts
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twizzstyle
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
You are over thinking it. Buy 7mm and slip em in. Or buy the slightly shorter ones and counts ink further in to achieve flush on top. Epoxy fills in the mill of so of extra counter. You can put a piece or glass under the pack, or even put slits in the piece of glass and push the inserts through it. The later is the best , but might take 5 extra minutes.