Page 1 of 2

Boards of Prey split

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:23 pm
by the.quass
Hey guys,
So, I am starting a new topic as the old one, although not much has happened in it is quite old. I wanted to keep this separate and hopefully update it a little more.

I am making a split so I can start playing a little in the sidecountry/back country and possibly do my av cert this year on it.
It's a 162
The nose is a little wider than the tail and longer.
It will have standard rocker but early rise in the nose. The extra lines on the board are the carbon stringers I plan to put in it.
Any feedback from you pro builders is welcome. Don't look at the core, it's just how snocad built it.
I based it on a Jones board I like the look of but tweaked it a little bit.
p.s A big thanks to Dan Graf, Head Monkey (for Monkey cam) and Richie for the work on snocad!

Image

Re: Boards of Prey split

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:04 pm
by richie
the.quass wrote:Hey guys,
So, I am starting a new topic as the old one, although not much has happened in it is quite old. I wanted to keep this separate and hopefully update it a little more.

I am making a split so I can start playing a little in the sidecountry/back country and possibly do my av cert this year on it.
It's a 162
The nose is a little wider than the tail and longer.
It will have standard rocker but early rise in the nose. The extra lines on the board are the carbon stringers I plan to put in it.
Any feedback from you pro builders is welcome. Don't look at the core, it's just how snocad built it.
I based it on a Jones board I like the look of but tweaked it a little bit.
p.s A big thanks to Head Monkey and Richie for the work on snocad!

Image
Hey don't forget Dan Graf he's the SnoCAD-X creator!!!!

I can help you with all the splitboard specific dimensions if you need them too so sing out if you want help there mate. Board looks great and I love the name too.

cheers
Rich

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:13 pm
by the.quass
Hey Richie,
Thanks I made an edit... How did I forget that!

In terms of split specific dims do you mean placement of hardware etc?
that would be great if you have it.
Also, what thickness are you running on your cores for a split? Do you change? I imagine a 1 - 1.5mm thicker in the middle/underfoot tapering to tip and tails at 2mm still.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:22 pm
by richie
the.quass wrote:Hey Richie,
Thanks I made an edit... How did I forget that!

In terms of split specific dims do you mean placement of hardware etc?
that would be great if you have it.
Also, what thickness are you running on your cores for a split? Do you change? I imagine a 1 - 1.5mm thicker in the middle/underfoot tapering to tip and tails at 2mm still.
yup I can dig out the insert spacings for the touring pivots and pucks its quite critical so your split interface fits well as most splitboard gear is intolerant to poorly measured hole patterns.

honestly for your first board , don't change much from your standard profile. My boards still come out way too stiff and I'm still working down to the right thickness by trial and error so I'm not there yet myself. Splitboards still end up about as stiff in ride mode and when you're in tour mode it is still supporting the same weight accross both boards so they don't flex much unless you're bridging accross a snow gap like stream or small crevice or undulations in terrain. So I wouldn't add much at all if any eh. cheers Rich

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 5:18 pm
by RYM Experimentals
I've built five splits now and standard insert spacing I use for my splits is 90mm across by 25mm between inserts. I usually go with 12 inserts either side (tip/tail) for a total of 24 for the pucks. This gives some room to move your stance around a bit. For the climbing insert spacing, buy your hardware first then center it where you like on the core before you drill the holes (everyone is a bit different). In general, place the toe mount just ahead of centerline. Go look around at the factory splits; find one you like and copy the offsets. I run mine at 20-40mm offset towards the tail. Its a powder board after all so give yourself some extra tip.

Hope that helps, hit me back if you want more info.

Cheers, -Don from Ryme

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:46 pm
by the.quass
Hi Rich,
All good points.
I think if I add the carbon stringers on top (and bottom) it sounds like it might be enough.

Thanks for the tips Don

I have a voile kit and should have some prowder clips in a week or so. I won't have a core in that time anyway so all good.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:12 am
by chrismp
Here's the industry standard templates: http://www.splitboardbindings.com/wp-co ... es_A02.pdf

This works for all major splitboard binding brands. If you want more stance options reduce the spacing between the binding inserts from 2" to 1" and add more inserts.

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:46 pm
by the.quass
Hey there lad's.
I have fallen off the wagon a little with this but want to get back on board.
I have ripped some stuff into cad and want to get the core cut in cad. I have found someone to do this.
Plans are for the following.
Design will be like this. Should be interesting.

Image


Core profile like this. It should be 2mm at the tip and tail....

Image

What do you think?
Anything you can see that I should change? I have made the core a little thicker as I am a big lad and it will be a split so I imagine it will need to be more like the thickness of a ski.

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:18 am
by falls
I don't know that much about snowboards but I think that is going to be stiff.
A 160cm ski with 13mm thick core tapering to 3mm is prob going to be pretty stiff. Just reading back through the thread some of the other guys that have built splits said that you don't need to significantly increase core thickness.

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:33 am
by the.quass
falls wrote:I don't know that much about snowboards but I think that is going to be stiff.
A 160cm ski with 13mm thick core tapering to 3mm is prob going to be pretty stiff. Just reading back through the thread some of the other guys that have built splits said that you don't need to significantly increase core thickness.
Hey Falls,
The tip and tail will be 2mm.
I am a big dude, 6 foot tall and over 100 kegs. Might reduce it down to 12 but don't want to go to skinny.
DC

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 9:59 am
by chrismp
13mm or even 12mm is way too much.

I built a 175cm long splitboard for a guy with a similar build who wanted a really stiff board and went with 8.5mm core thickness. Came out really stiff using spruce.

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:14 pm
by MontuckyMadman
Yeah we did a split with some bamboo and poplar and ash and 22oz triax at 160cm core the thickest was 7mm.. Was pretty stiff for a 6' tall 200lb guy. The overall width was 300mm.
The shorter the beam the thinner it can be to acheive the same stiffness. Skis are thick cause their long and skinny.

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:09 pm
by Head Monkey
Consider that a **tall** standard snowboard insert is only .325" (8.25mm). That would be a stiff board for any rider. Alpine race board inserts are .410" (10.4mm) or so; narrower boards, and designed to be stiff as all get out. Shoot for the 8mm range, unless you're 300lbs+ :)

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 8:39 pm
by heke
I don't know anything about snow boards, but what I know is that you should follow the ideas these guys have. I did that and both of the skies I have build works just fine. I would have make the first pair far too stiff. There is enough challenges in building work even though it is quite simple.

Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:43 am
by the.quass
Chaps, I rechecked my notes and you are all dead right. I brain farted. Lucky you guys picked it up!