Finally done with pair

[manmade]

Finally finished my first pair after all summer [/img][URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[Mongo]

Nice setup. Everything looks solid and well laid out. What kind of core materials/lamination, profile, sidecut, pressing time/pressure, etc. did you use? Also how did the propane heater work out for you? --Geoff

[manmade]

My core material is poplar and maple Elmer’s white glue for bonding. The core profile is the same as The Governor 10mm in the middle. My dimensions are 130 105 122 tip, waist, and tail same as Volkl Gotma. I used wood for the sidewall, I found UHMW difficult to bond (even with abrasion and flame treatment) with several different epoxies, next pair I will try ABS. I'm lucky to work for an automotive prototype supplier i.e. I have many machines and material at my disposal. The CNC machine worked great for all my template and core work. Everything came out within fractions of mm. All my patterns and mold were created in Unigraphics CAD software. I will be more than happy to share these CAD files with anyone. My lay up consisted of Durasurf base, with 2 layers of 22oz. glass, a graphics layer of cloth and .75mm Durasurf top sheet. The epoxy I choose was QCM 0049 w/0032 hardener Roy Wheeldon at QCM was a great help in my search for epoxy. I used 700 grams total per ski. As a recommendation by Roy I choose to use heat during my lay up. This turned out to be a very wise decision and I personally think it made all the difference in making a good ski my first attempt. My oven was a 12 dollar piece of plywood (made into a box) with a propane bullet heater blowing in the end. The press parameters were 45psi. at 150 deg. F for 4-6 hours. I think I could have pulled them out sooner but I took the cautious approach. My resin mixing cups cured in an industrial oven after 1 hour at 150 deg. F. I would also like to recommend using a cassette while pressing. This alone saved me in many ways; I never had to worry about my edges popping off during pressing. This cassette also worked great for alignment in the mold during the press. Basically the cassette was a 1/8 in x 7.0 in x 74 in pc. of HDPE with the profile of my base with the edges attached cut about 1.5 mm deep. I placed the base with edges into the 1.5 mm deep pocket and used 2 way tape to secure for the layout. When this is done simply place the cassette into your mold and fasten with 1in. drywall screws through it.
This cassette also eliminates the need to coat your mold because it acts as a catch for all spilled over epoxy during pressing. I found after fastening the cassette to the mold I followed all the regular steps to the letter including nailing the core to the mold (through the cassette). I think you may find it a bit easier to demold the ski using the cassette as well. It may be a little more work to make the cassette but I highly recommend this step. I would like to thank everyone at this forum for all they contribute; I think I have found useful information in every post. I do think I've read every one at least once lol! I hope I have contributed a little piece back.

[iggyskier]

hey

everything looks really nice!

One question - how did you keep your core from moving inside the cassette? I can see how the base would stay still, but wouldnt it still be possible for the core to shift?

[manmade]

I used small finish nails to secure the core in place. I just drilled the holes through the cassette and into my mold.

[G-man]

manmade,

Holy moley! Now, that's what I call a workshop!

Your very calculated approach to ski building (thoroughly reading the info on the site, testing UHMW bond techniques, heat cure testing of epoxy samples) was a big factor in your success right of the start gate.

Thanks for sharing your process and pictures. Again, the skis look great.

G-man