Detailed documentation of my next build

Document your personal work here. Show photos, movies, and share your secrets.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

No idea why I thought to ask that.

Image

Image
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

@Akiwi:Now I get what you mean :)

Small progress:
Made the mould ready for pressing the cap top of the ski. Put 3mm hardboard below the skis to get enough pressure everywhere when pressing cap.

Image
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Why don't you do it all in one pressing?
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Most of all because I can't think of a proper method to align the cores so damn damn precise. If they just shift by 0.1mm it makes a 0.2mm difference from left to right side of the ski already, and more than 0.4mm difference I will definitely see. So max. core shift I could live with is 0.2mm, and so far I haven't found a proper way to achieve this.

Thats the problem with pressing cap...
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

I drill 2 holes in the core and insert a dowel in each.
I put the dowel in the core and a spot of superglue on the end of it and place the core exactly where I want it. Remove the core leaving the dowel attached to the ski base.
In the layup you have to fit the cloth around the dowel, but you are guaranteed perfect core position and no shift.

On snowboards I use the same method but do it with 2 of the binding inserts.

Works for me at least.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Thought about using the dovel method, but there is so much trouble I can think of that I kept away from it until now. Then next Ski I build will have wooden sidewalls, this will make everything much easier in terms of labour. But I have tons of other ideas that cause extra work again :) Well thats me, a perfectionist!

Ok, today I made some progress. First, I used my new Bandsaw to cut the excess material away. Did this with a jigsaw so far. Bandsaw is sooo much better for doing this. A quick runover with the belt sander makes the sides nice and even:

Image



In this picture, the skis are already in place for routing the bevel on the sides. I use a simple selfmade attachment for the router. A 15° doveltail router is tilted more so the total angle is about 35-40°:

Image



The result is great, unfortunately the pic is not too good:

Image


The top edge is rounded by hand so the topsheet can bend over it well:

Image
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Also made some quick work on the mould:
3mm hardboard cut in ski shape (except ends) to help the topsheet bend over better when pressing cap. Like this, the sides of the cap get enough pressure everywhere.


Image
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Your attention to detail is very inspiring.. I feel like a bit of a hack when I see how perfect your skis are. ;-) Respect!!
What is the white layer under your core? Is that a PU layer or something. I sawi it in your earlier pictures from above where there is a white stripe where the core gets thinner and was wondering what that is.
I used my new band saw also for the first time on Monday and was also amazed as to how fast and easy it was... and almost no dust with the dust extractor on.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Thanks for the flowers :)

The white stripe is 3mm thick ABS, normally used for tipspacers. Its above the edge, approx. 10mm deep into the core. Its my mini sidewall.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Prepared everything for 2nd part of layup yesterday:

Image
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Pressed today, seems good so far:

Image
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Been looking forward to seeing how they came out. They look pretty nice.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
Hannes
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 2:20 am
Location: NRW, Germany

Post by Hannes »

Looking great! How thick is your topsheet? E
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

It's 0.5mm thick. Would like to have a thinner one like 0.3mm, but didnt find it anywhere yet.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Akiwi wrote:Been looking forward to seeing how they came out. They look pretty nice.
At the moment they look pretty dull, as the protection sheet is still on top. Will remove it after drilling the binding holes, that will take some days.
Post Reply