Cornice Skis

falls · Post by **falls** » Sat Oct 20, 2012 1:42 am

Pullins in Mansfield. They do boards as well.

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:14 pm

double post

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:14 pm

Sooo it snowed! I got to ski my own skis! Making your own skis is SUPER ummm fun! Hate to use these words but they are awesome and i am stoked!!

Where did i leave off? Ohhh the grind THE GRIND

. That pretty much went as expected. I had to go in there and bitch before they would grind them a week late. The ski tec only ground the base until it barely touched the edge then stopped. They could use about one more pass. Oh and they hot waxed them with some crap even tho i said NO WAX. I will find a better ski shop in the future. Tried to buy a couple grinders off the net but NO one wants to stick the thing on a pallet so a truck can pick it up. Cant get skiers to do jack!!

No snow in AK so far. We have 10-20 inches of the white stuff and the rest is gun snow at the ski hill. Back country is about the same... The skis perform way better then i thought they would on the hard pack. They make a great groomer ski. Probably would not have been as great on the ice if i would have made them with all the rocker wanted. Thats ok because i think my next ski will have a ton of rocker. Thinking maybe pontoon looking ski. If this weather does not change i will have to make some groomer skis.

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:58 pm

Congrats on the first ride of your first pair. That's a big step!

Now the experimenting can begin.

troublemaker · Post by **troublemaker** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:39 pm

You could always build your own base grinder/sander, I built one for less than a $100 and it works great!

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:06 pm

No real ski building to speak of. I do have a set ready to press, i just need to finish my new tip and tail molds. I just need to router them out.... muhaha

Just picked this used shopbot off craigs for a great deal! Steel C channel table, full 4x8 sheet capacity. Does allot nicer work then i can do with just a print out template and jig saw. Going to upgrade this to gecko g540 and mach3 in the future as the current system runs off windows 98 and ms dos.

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:59 am

is that the old cable driven shopbot?

You can score those for 2500-3500 bucks off craigslist or shopbotter forums if you're lucky. I almost did it but another shopbotter advised i spend more ( a small fortune) and get a more recent machine.

anyway, is it working well for you?

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:56 am

No not cable drive. It has regular stepper motors that run on rack and pinion. for the x&Y. The Z axis is a ball screw setup. It does use unistrut as rails witch works great once squared. Not bad for 25. It was only about two miles down the road so it pretty much had to follow me home.

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:45 pm

score!

i got my free autofeed grinder running for about 1000 bucks, i guess i gotta drop coin on a cnc, cant get everything for free/cheap

knightsofnii · Post by **knightsofnii** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:53 pm

oh and the shop tuning guy complaining about grinding your bare skis. That's because they're not equipped to do so quickly.

Most use 80 grit lightly broken for a few passes to remove a good amount of material, and this is where the flattening happens. Then 100, 120, 150, etc...

most shops have one belt and one stone, if that. And their belt has probably 1000 board tunes on it. Because they dont put much into it. if a board is factory and already has been decked, to regrind it takes only like 2 passes on a 100/120/150 whatever they have available.

The wrong belt wont do anything at all to a virgin base, most likely just burn it.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:35 pm

Where the fu ck do u get a shopbot for 2500???

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:10 pm

I have finally found something more time consuming then ski building.
CNC machines.
Now in the past i have ran a CNC water jet with very little effort or brain power exerted. Oh not this animal. It was reasonably easy to re-assemble and get working once again. The interface was Shopbot and windows 98 yuck! Try using a USB memory stick with windows 98 IMPOSSIBLE! Next my CD drive ate a CD then my HAMMER!!
AFter the hammer incident of that late night, i decided i would do the upgrade. I upgraded the driver to a Gecko G540. Software to Art cam Mach3. Now i can run windows XP and start learning all the new software.
Try reading a CNC forum. Ohhh my goodness that will put a guy to sleep. I could probably read for years and never figure anything out.

Notes on those considering a CNC machine for around the shop...

1. IMO it is probably better to build one from scratch or a kit because then you will know all there is to know about your machine. Invariably you will have to work on it and you will know just what to do.
2. If you think CAD and CAM software is the same thing add some serious learning time. Learning all the software is going to be a big hurdle for me.
3. Space space these things need space. My shop just shrunk by 20%.

Cornice · Post by **Cornice** » Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:03 pm

Finished pair #2 today. Wooo!!
They are pretty big
147- 128- 137
about 188 in length.

They turned out very nice but not really what i wanted.
Problems arose mostly from the heat i think...??? Rather then just a top heat blanket i utilized my second blanket on the bottom. My first pair i wanted some heat induced reverse camber but really did not get any. This second pair i put about 15mm of reverse camber into the front mold but ended up with about 5mm. I pressed with my flat center camber section but got about 3mm of camber!!! WTF! I had my heat probe on the top soo all i can figure is the bottom of the ski got much hotter. How big of a deferential can induce camber?
Problem 2- The tips are a bit concave. Dont know what happened there?

Other then that it went really well. I used Helmsman on the top. They are super glossy, may try semi gloss next time. There also may not be a next time. I sprayed about eight coats, and it could have used about 10, but man that stuff stinks. Maybe in the summer, if i could do it outside, it would be ok but not in the winter in my shop again.

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skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:03 am

What did you use for a top sheet? I like the look. Poly does stink up the place. I've tried System 3 LPU ($$$) which works pretty good, almost no smell and it's water clean up. Sprays on good and goes on good w/ a foam brush, but does not level out quite as good as oil based poly ($).

You can use gloss poly and then buff out to a semi-gloss finish. That gets rid of all the little dust particles.

gozaimaas · Post by **gozaimaas** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:15 am

I used poly then hit it with green scotchbrite for a much more subtle finish that doesnt show scratches as much

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