OZ Snowboards 2011/2012
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
OZ Snowboards 2011/2012
Just finished this board for a photo shoot in Colorado Snowboard Magazine. I am trying to decide if I should drill the bindings holes out or leave as is for the shoot? Also, I have been going back and forth as to putting a logo on it? To me putting a logo on it could ruin the whole look, any thoughts? This is a full triaxial carbon fiber layup with Kevlar honeycomb and poplar core, suuuuuuper light!
Here is another board I finished:
I moved my shop to a better location in the mountains:
Here is another board I finished:
I moved my shop to a better location in the mountains:
Very nice look, and your shop space is great! I'm thinking if it's going in a mag, the logo somewhere would provide some identify? What's the wood species and top treatment? I really like it. I made about 5 pairs this year with veneer for friends, and I really like the look of wood. I even embedded an aluminum logo, cut out using the CNC.
Thanks Kam! I love the wood veneer look as well. The first board is a blood wood center and I am not sure about the sides. I need to do a better job of writing down the veneer names when I buy them. For the first board I pre-polyurethaned with System Three WR-LPU and then pressed like it was a top sheet. Worked great and thanks to others who have posted that method on skibuilders because I spent many hours on a couple of boards trying to sand the damn board flat after pressing the veneer in the layup no pre poly'd.
Here is a pic of the second board with a graphic and logo on it. I think the white is a pretty stark difference.
Here is a pic of the second board with a graphic and logo on it. I think the white is a pretty stark difference.
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I concur with jvangelder -- the logo really ties it all together. Very nice looking board, indeed!!!
Here's one pair that I made for a friend back in April: Pearwood and maple with Jatoba sidewalls. K logo CNC cut. Slight early tip/tail rise; quadratic shape sidecut; viscoelastic constrain layer damping gizmo incorporated into the front end of the skis; pine core; 8 mm of camber; veneer epoxy coated, then PU finish coat. Since then I've produced 7 more similar looking skis using veneer. One pair had an aluminum K logo. Veneer is nice, but I've noticed that it's not as durable as the polyester or UHMW topsheet material. I have a pair, skied about 30 days since Jan. and the topsheet is taking a beating....
Keep up the good work and congrats on the mag exposure -- that's really cool!!!
Here's one pair that I made for a friend back in April: Pearwood and maple with Jatoba sidewalls. K logo CNC cut. Slight early tip/tail rise; quadratic shape sidecut; viscoelastic constrain layer damping gizmo incorporated into the front end of the skis; pine core; 8 mm of camber; veneer epoxy coated, then PU finish coat. Since then I've produced 7 more similar looking skis using veneer. One pair had an aluminum K logo. Veneer is nice, but I've noticed that it's not as durable as the polyester or UHMW topsheet material. I have a pair, skied about 30 days since Jan. and the topsheet is taking a beating....
Keep up the good work and congrats on the mag exposure -- that's really cool!!!
Great Work CO - I like your graphics, but I wonders whether some veneers are so attractive they don't need a logo? Maybe it allows a link across to other custom manufacturers? Look forward to seeing the results from the photoshoot!
Skis the veneers will take a beating ... less with snowboards, which is why polyurethane appears to be sufficient.
Generally polyurethane has a D range shore hardness - not always, but it does add an extra layer of UV resistance. Epoxy tends to be in the A range, above 80. With veneers, the epoxy tends to flood the veneer when put in the press. Depending on your lay up procedure, you have the option to let it soak - per Swel Panik, but this doesn't saturates the fibres, it merely provides a linked coating around the fibres and a consistent result.
I think there are a number of options:
1. Minimise the risk by selecting the veneers with the right characteristics
2. Use plasticized veneer - you can buy compreg in the US
3. Pre-press the veneer at high pressure (pre-preg veneer)
4. Impregnate the veneer using a vacuum
5. Find an additive to increase the hardness of the epoxy and or polyurethane - e.g. nano sized glass particles
6. Ask Wagner what he is using : )
The above would tend toward 'hardening' the veneer - an alternative would be to look at rubberising the veneer and design around it e.g semi-cap.
Skis the veneers will take a beating ... less with snowboards, which is why polyurethane appears to be sufficient.
Generally polyurethane has a D range shore hardness - not always, but it does add an extra layer of UV resistance. Epoxy tends to be in the A range, above 80. With veneers, the epoxy tends to flood the veneer when put in the press. Depending on your lay up procedure, you have the option to let it soak - per Swel Panik, but this doesn't saturates the fibres, it merely provides a linked coating around the fibres and a consistent result.
I think there are a number of options:
1. Minimise the risk by selecting the veneers with the right characteristics
2. Use plasticized veneer - you can buy compreg in the US
3. Pre-press the veneer at high pressure (pre-preg veneer)
4. Impregnate the veneer using a vacuum
5. Find an additive to increase the hardness of the epoxy and or polyurethane - e.g. nano sized glass particles
6. Ask Wagner what he is using : )
The above would tend toward 'hardening' the veneer - an alternative would be to look at rubberising the veneer and design around it e.g semi-cap.
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Superb board! I'm really partial to wood veneer. That looks great! At first I thought no logo, cause it can take away from the beauty of the veneer, but the logo looks great and gives the board identity, especially since it's in a photo shoot you want people to know who made it.
Also I like the logo vs a graphic. I tend to think of logos a simple "graphic" or image to give the maker an identity. I think of a graphic more of a print that covers a board.... anyways getting off topic.
RichUK - I saw youtube clip where a boat builder used 2 coats of epoxy (West 105 epoxy??) followed by 3 coats of Spar varnish with UV protectors. Time consuming process but looked great!
Also I like the logo vs a graphic. I tend to think of logos a simple "graphic" or image to give the maker an identity. I think of a graphic more of a print that covers a board.... anyways getting off topic.
RichUK - I saw youtube clip where a boat builder used 2 coats of epoxy (West 105 epoxy??) followed by 3 coats of Spar varnish with UV protectors. Time consuming process but looked great!
- Head Monkey
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Wonderful looking tops. Nice work!
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
- threeninethree
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