(But I haven't seen any plans yet)OAC 2010/11
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
Is that the fiberglass and the topsheet?
That is a new one on me, I would think you could get the glass to stick to the wood without any difficulties.
I usually run the belt sander with 60 grit over my cores to rough them up a bit after the router.
But I always thought I was just being anal.
Do you wet out your glass in the layup or separately?
Did you spread epoxy on the core before laying in the glass?
Weird, just plain weird!
sam
That is a new one on me, I would think you could get the glass to stick to the wood without any difficulties.
I usually run the belt sander with 60 grit over my cores to rough them up a bit after the router.
But I always thought I was just being anal.
Do you wet out your glass in the layup or separately?
Did you spread epoxy on the core before laying in the glass?
Weird, just plain weird!
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Yes, it's both topsheet and the fiberglass. And yes I wet out the FG and spread the epoxy on the wood core. The odd thing is that this build was the one I was the most accurate ever!
What bothers me most is that it comes of so easy!
I will definitely rough up the core on the next build!
When I recap the process I remember that the blades in the planer was worn out and more or less "smoothed" the surface on the core rather than cut it. The blades are changed!
What bothers me most is that it comes of so easy!
I will definitely rough up the core on the next build!
When I recap the process I remember that the blades in the planer was worn out and more or less "smoothed" the surface on the core rather than cut it. The blades are changed!
Yes, you're right. The surface was really "blank" when recall. No pores there! 
It's just regular printer paper, on a roll. The last epoxi layer is mixed with white paste. I know what you think now, but NO that's not the issue with the delam. (It has been tested)
The last finish is 2-comp lacquer.
FYI: The base is the one from your roll. And it was reported good glide and no other issue. No delam on that side.
It's just regular printer paper, on a roll. The last epoxi layer is mixed with white paste. I know what you think now, but NO that's not the issue with the delam.
(It has been tested)The last finish is 2-comp lacquer.
FYI: The base is the one from your roll. And it was reported good glide and no other issue. No delam on that side.
i guess the lack of pores could be the culprit here...but i'm no expert
the paper question was just out of interest. since i also use paper and i couldn't get regular topsheet to bond, i was wondering how you achieve that glossy finish
glad the base works well! maybe you could post a photo of the base...i haven't seen it on a finished ski yet. it'd be interesting to see how transparent it actually is.
the paper question was just out of interest. since i also use paper and i couldn't get regular topsheet to bond, i was wondering how you achieve that glossy finish
glad the base works well! maybe you could post a photo of the base...i haven't seen it on a finished ski yet. it'd be interesting to see how transparent it actually is.
The klarlack: http://shop.r-g.de/Farben-Lacke/Basco-L ... nzend.html
Strong as h-l! Wear a mask with all protection levels! and good ventilation!
I will take a picture ater today.
Strong as h-l! Wear a mask with all protection levels! and good ventilation!
I will take a picture ater today.
never seen anything like that beforeOAC wrote:No (not this timeVinman wrote:bad epoxy mix ratio?
I think MM is right, I will abrade the core on the next build!
...and the mechanic/pneumatic press build comes closer also..
you've bagged quite a few pairs before without any wood-glass delam
I d guess heat is your no1 suspect, as this is the last ingredient added to your tested recipe
whats your bagging schedule? breather, bleeder, peel-ply etc?
The main suspect is the planer knives. When I planed the core, which always happens on the "upside" of the core, I used dull knives/blades. This made the pores of the wood to be forced down instead of up. And probably alot of dust and dirt was rubbed in to the surface.
I made a pair before these with heat and they stick together...still.
I made a pair before these with heat and they stick together...still.
Hi. I've got some thoughts from my woody background. With timber we are taught that the best surface to bond to is a cleanly cut unabraded surface. The logic goes something like this. A surface prepared with a sharp edge cutting tool, like a chisel or planner, has excellent surface integrity - undamaged wood fibres, clear open pores and an unoxidised surface.
Therefore the worst possible surface to bond to is an abraded surface that has being exposed to the air for a long time. The problem with sanding the surface comes from the tendency of the sanding medium to partial remove long timber fibres leaving the surface a mess of partial unattached fibres that prevent the adhesive reaching the undamaged timber. These fibres then break free when a load is applied to the bond causing the whole join to fail.
I'd assume that a blunt planner creates a similar problem in that the surface of the timber is crushed reducing its ability to absorb the adhesive and then breaking away once a load is applied.
Having said that when I've used UHMWPE side walls I have abraded these once attached and profiled, effectively sanding the core along a 80ish mm strip on each side.
For my money the best bet is to use a sharp planner/router or if you must sand use the coarsest paper you can without wrecking the core and don't store you cores for long.
Chris
Therefore the worst possible surface to bond to is an abraded surface that has being exposed to the air for a long time. The problem with sanding the surface comes from the tendency of the sanding medium to partial remove long timber fibres leaving the surface a mess of partial unattached fibres that prevent the adhesive reaching the undamaged timber. These fibres then break free when a load is applied to the bond causing the whole join to fail.
I'd assume that a blunt planner creates a similar problem in that the surface of the timber is crushed reducing its ability to absorb the adhesive and then breaking away once a load is applied.
Having said that when I've used UHMWPE side walls I have abraded these once attached and profiled, effectively sanding the core along a 80ish mm strip on each side.
For my money the best bet is to use a sharp planner/router or if you must sand use the coarsest paper you can without wrecking the core and don't store you cores for long.
Chris
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doughboyshredder
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