Happy Monkey's process

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ben_mtl
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Post by ben_mtl » Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:51 am

I would say it's a template to cut the curve in the veneer...
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Head Monkey
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Post by Head Monkey » Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:17 pm

Yes, the curved MDF with the holes is indeed a template to cut curves in the veneer. It's a 21m arc or so, with holes to make it a bit lighter and easier to handle. A sharp eye will note the holes are not along the centerline of the form... a mistake I corrected in subsequent templates.
Vinman wrote:Quoted from an email from Trevor at Vectorply

"For hand lamination, the ideal fiber content (fiber weight fraction) is in the 50% to 60% range (50% to 40% resin), ... [snip]"
Vinman, that's really interesting, thanks! I have a similar range in my head from a composites book that I read long ago, but I've misplaced it. It's gotta be in this house somewhere and when I find it I'll add a reference.
Vinman wrote: My buddy in a big time snowboard op r&d says 38-40% is what they try for.
To clarify, is your buddy saying they aim for 38-40% fiber or resin? I'm assuming resin but want to confirm since that seems quite low for fiber.

And Rich, thanks for the link, I'll give it a read!
Last edited by Head Monkey on Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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vinman
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Post by vinman » Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:56 pm

Yes 38-40% resin
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knightsofnii
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Post by knightsofnii » Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:32 am

id say for home builders, err on the side of more resin
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Post by Richuk » Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:57 am

The figures quoted by Vector ply are a reflection of the process employed, with one process being more efficient than another.

So the question remains what resin/fibre ratio provides for the best mechanical properties relative to the purpose and process being employed - that get's you to the factory recommendation. There's a Never Summer video on the site that shows their approach to this issue.

Video:

Plastic tips/mini nozzles are available for Super Glue. They will define the size of the droplet, according to the viscosity of the glue being used and you'll have no more issues with too much glue. They also help will accuracy - especially in the cold. Super Glue, is moisture cure and if you are in a moisture rich climate, you can bond quickly by applying the heat (allow the soldering iron to slowly warm the tine), it speeds up the reaction. Only useful to know when you are mid layup.

Head Monkey
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by Head Monkey » Sun Mar 10, 2019 12:49 pm

Well, I haven't updated this in a while. I'll see about tossing a few pics and details in here of my efforts over the past few years. I haven't been building nearly as much, but I'm still into it :)

Here's a 30x time-lapse of me adding edges to a base:



And here's a 30x of building a core from blank to finished core, with application of sidewalls along the way:

Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
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LumberJacked
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by LumberJacked » Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:34 pm

Over-bending the edges.... Is this done because minor adjustments are easier for re-straightening than for bending? Am I on the right track here?

Head Monkey
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by Head Monkey » Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:48 pm

LumberJacked wrote:
Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:34 pm
Over-bending the edges.... Is this done because minor adjustments are easier for re-straightening than for bending? Am I on the right track here?
Correct.
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X

mammuth
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by mammuth » Mon Mar 11, 2019 1:30 am

You cut full depth (during profiling) in one pass? May i ask which router bit and feed speed you use
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chrismp
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by chrismp » Mon Mar 11, 2019 7:09 am

Here's the info on the bits HeadMonkey uses including speeds (not feeds though): http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... outer_Bits

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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by Head Monkey » Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:46 pm

Thanks for linking the bits and speeds chrismp!

For feeds during core profiling:
  • Lead in, center shallow area, and full-depth nose/tail areas: 50 IPM
  • Those little transitions between loops, which are done at full depth: 20 IPM
I'd actually like to run much faster in the shallow areas, but I've never gotten around to programming that in. I'd also like to run the last loop slower where it begins to engage with the sidewall material, as this is a danger zone for tear out. Maybe one day I'll do it, but honestly the (mostly) constant feed rate of 50 IPM works well enough for me.
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X

mammuth
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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by mammuth » Mon Mar 11, 2019 1:36 pm

Thanks for reply! Didnt see that you updated the monkey site too. Great!!!

Did you try that with ash or similar hardwood too? I do ask because we go a quite conservative route with cuts around 2mm deep for profiling (mainly ash - chrismp could answer that he did the postprocessor setup). But our feed rate is higher i believe.

How long is it for you to profile a core?
Tom

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Re: Happy Monkey's process

Post by Head Monkey » Mon Mar 11, 2019 2:06 pm

My cores are poplar with 2cm ash edge stringers, and then PTEX sidewalls, so the last couple of loops are thru ash. Feeds are just fine.

It takes about 30min to profile a core for me.
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X

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