Hose-Man,
When you ordered your P-tex off the remnant roll, did you do so directly from Durasurf or through a local plastic supplier? I have been ordering Durasurf for a work engineering project and they told me they don't sell direct. Thanks for the great info and pics from your experience. --Geoff
HOSE-MAN's JOURNAL - chronicling my ski build
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I just placed an order with them...bought a couple end rolls....no problemhose-man wrote:Direct from Durasurt. No questions asked. It's been more than a year since I did it, so things may have changed since then.
Realisticly though, I am a "custom ski manufacturer" and there's no reason that I shouldn't be sold materials at wholesale.
deformed mold
Hey hose-man, I was wondering if you could give us a little more detail on how your mold deformed. Was it caused by the tip and tail blocks breaking their attachment to the bottom mold?
I am asking because I just got done with my press and am about to start the mold. I was thinking about a design similar to what I saw you did (bottom mold is a solid block with tip and tail pieces adjustable) but wanted to avoid repeating any mistakes if you've found that the design doesn't work. Thanks in advance.
I am asking because I just got done with my press and am about to start the mold. I was thinking about a design similar to what I saw you did (bottom mold is a solid block with tip and tail pieces adjustable) but wanted to avoid repeating any mistakes if you've found that the design doesn't work. Thanks in advance.
My mold is mdf.
After pressing with heat for about an hour we pulled the skis out and the tips immediately began to delam. We threw the skis back on the mold & into the press, letting them bake for another hour. Then when we pulled them out they were adequately cured.
I later noticed this deformity in the mold. I don't know if it was because of heating only from the bottom, or if it's because I pulled the skis out hot & the quick cooling of the mold deformed it, but here's a little sketch of what they did.
I figure I'll just take the tips off the camber section & flip them over. The camber of the mold exactly reversed itself.
After pressing with heat for about an hour we pulled the skis out and the tips immediately began to delam. We threw the skis back on the mold & into the press, letting them bake for another hour. Then when we pulled them out they were adequately cured.
I later noticed this deformity in the mold. I don't know if it was because of heating only from the bottom, or if it's because I pulled the skis out hot & the quick cooling of the mold deformed it, but here's a little sketch of what they did.
I figure I'll just take the tips off the camber section & flip them over. The camber of the mold exactly reversed itself.
hose man!!
Im coming from the kiteboard building world, and far from ready to start building my own snowboards (maybe when my burton contacts dry up...
Im wondering where you got your E-tlx 1900, I know you said you had an inside scoop on it, was that a hookup through vectorply directly or a wholesaler/retialer? i know it was also a year ago but I got to try!
I cant find a retailer and this is THE perfect solution for my boards... the only thing I can get is a 24 oz triax, but that is wieght overkill and too stiff.
so if you know where I can purchase some please pass on da knowledge!
Im coming from the kiteboard building world, and far from ready to start building my own snowboards (maybe when my burton contacts dry up...
Im wondering where you got your E-tlx 1900, I know you said you had an inside scoop on it, was that a hookup through vectorply directly or a wholesaler/retialer? i know it was also a year ago but I got to try!
I cant find a retailer and this is THE perfect solution for my boards... the only thing I can get is a 24 oz triax, but that is wieght overkill and too stiff.
so if you know where I can purchase some please pass on da knowledge!
don't be afraid of the 24oz glass either. Stiffness is just a balance of core thickness & composite layers. If you can easily get the 24oz glass then get it & make your core thinner to compensate. It will all work out fine. We used 22oz glass in the first pair of skis & a 10mm --> 2mm core & the skis were super soft. We've got to take the core thickness to 12mm for the next ones.
thanks guys I cant believe I missd it on fiberglss supplys site. weight is an issue with kiteboards, and I dont need any more compression strength, thats why I want the 19oz.
speaking of design engineering, if you havent discovered it, go to vectorply.com and load their vectorlam blue program from the "build laminate" pulldwn. Its a great wy to mockup layups. with a couple of reference boards already built by you, you can easily extrapolate improvements in either strength or sitffness or weight, without any further build experiements. you can adjust core thickness' or glass weights/ fiber orientations, and determine snap, pop, flex and strength. really fun and really brings a great understanding of how to build a better more appropriate beam!
thanks ya'll!!!
s
speaking of design engineering, if you havent discovered it, go to vectorply.com and load their vectorlam blue program from the "build laminate" pulldwn. Its a great wy to mockup layups. with a couple of reference boards already built by you, you can easily extrapolate improvements in either strength or sitffness or weight, without any further build experiements. you can adjust core thickness' or glass weights/ fiber orientations, and determine snap, pop, flex and strength. really fun and really brings a great understanding of how to build a better more appropriate beam!
thanks ya'll!!!
s