press flexion

For discussions related to designing and making ski/snowboard-building equipment, such as presses, core profilers, edge benders, etc.

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JoseSnow
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:34 am

press flexion

Post by JoseSnow »

Hi

Is it of if the distance of the middle part of my press rises 1cm when I press at 60 PSI?

It looks ok when pressing but still changes that little bit.

Image

I still have an empty space that is not pressing.
How would you fix this problem?

Image
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

You can place another board under the bottom or top mold to close the gap. The other option is to place thin spacers (I use 1/8 hardboard, 3 of them) under the bottom of the top mold in the tip and tail sections to force the hose into the bottom tip and tail blocks. Try either of those options first. You may have to shorten the height of the tip/tail blocks.
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chrismp
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Post by chrismp »

add a brace in the middle to stop deflection...1cm is quite a bit. some angle iron and flat bar should do the trick. just have a look at the journals on here to see how people are building their support braces.

your hose inflates too much, thats why it doesn't conform to your mold. try to make the gap between the top and bottom mold as small as possible so the bladder doesn't inflate that much. that should solve your issues.

btw, both your problems aren't new to this community...try searching for them on google ;)
gozaimaas
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Post by gozaimaas »

If you run a few welds across the top side of the top beam it will pull a slight curve into it which will counter act the flex.
Do the opposite on the bottom.
JoseSnow
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Post by JoseSnow »

Ok, I will add a brace in the middle and I will reduce the gap between the molds. Hope these works.
Thank you.
ggardner90
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Post by ggardner90 »

i placed a couple rows of .5in thick bamboo strips stacked 2 high between my cattrack and hose. it solved the problem
JoseSnow
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Post by JoseSnow »

So I did put an extra enforcment in the middle but still have a little deflection of 6 mm in the middle of my press at 80 PSI.

Is that fine?

Also I would like to know if its normal if the hoes loose 1 psi of air per hour.
JoseSnow
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Post by JoseSnow »

gozaimaas
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Post by gozaimaas »

The worst effect I can see assuming you have enough downforce across the entire job is that your bottom mould will no longer be accurate.
Go back and read my previous post if you really want to eliminate the problem.
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falls
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Post by falls »

1 psi loss per hour will be fine. leave the compressor hooked up during pressing and it will keep the pressure even without having to work too hard.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
JoseSnow
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Post by JoseSnow »

gozaimaas wrote:The worst effect I can see assuming you have enough downforce across the entire job is that your bottom mould will no longer be accurate.
Go back and read my previous post if you really want to eliminate the problem.
I dont understand what yo mean in the first post sorry, my english is not that good. Do you have an example?

I thought that the bottom mold will keep doing the same effect because is the bladder that adapts to the deflection of the press.

I might be wrong.

Thanks for your help!
JoseSnow
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:34 am

Post by JoseSnow »

falls wrote:1 psi loss per hour will be fine. leave the compressor hooked up during pressing and it will keep the pressure even without having to work too hard.
Thank you Falls. I will follow your advice.
gozaimaas
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Post by gozaimaas »

JoseSnow wrote:
gozaimaas wrote:The worst effect I can see assuming you have enough downforce across the entire job is that your bottom mould will no longer be accurate.
Go back and read my previous post if you really want to eliminate the problem.
I dont understand what yo mean in the first post sorry, my english is not that good. Do you have an example?

I thought that the bottom mold will keep doing the same effect because is the bladder that adapts to the deflection of the press.

I might be wrong.

Thanks for your help!
Ok, if you want to stop the steel beams from flexing under pressure one of the best ways is to counter act the flex in the first place. You can easily do this by running a few welds across the top of the beam.
Hopefully this pic will make it easier to understand
Image
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Wont the heat from the welds distort it up not down?
cooling and shrinkage pull up not shrink down?
im not sure at all.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
gozaimaas
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Post by gozaimaas »

The side you weld will become shorter. Trust me on that one 8)
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