Kevin, another option is to laminate a couple plies of tip-fill material. This 2.1mm thick, UHMW, and already treated for bonding on both sides. By laminating a couple thinner layers of UHMW together, its also easier to form more complex shapes.

Cooling in the press doesn’t necessarily mean it cools evenly. The mold has a lot of thermal mass. We always pull our skis hot and immediately “tune” the flex as they cool. Got the idea from a Volkl video and it works great. Once it holds the desired camber without springback, the pair is clamped ba...

We have an edge template (base template just that little bit wider) with packing tape on the surface in case CA glue finds its way there. Also, we rabbet the bottom of the template for easier spring-clamp-usage.

That looks great! I would expect any gaps (which I don’t even notice) to close up some when pressed flat. Separately, I bet if you put a low tack film over the veneer, it could vacuum flat, like a CNC bed.

Extending the tip curve down enough for a tangent sidecut is one method. Another is to simply add a fillet between the two curves. As long as you can edge the base without gaps, the transition will be fine. Really detuning your tips will make a bigger difference than a slight CAD change.

So we are trying to order Isospeed 7500 direct from Isosport in 1.4mm thickness. The 1.2mm stuff that is readily available doesn't match standard metal edge, so you end up with less to grind and edged base that doesn't sit as flat in the mold. Isospeed 7500 is high quality base - higher molecular we...

So recently our source of 10 lbs edge rolls dried up. We decided to invest in larger batches of some items and offer an online store. There seemed to be a need for an east coast one. Some highlights: -All items listed as per foot and continuous for reduced waste -Bulk edges (and per foot) -Local pic...

We setup a ski & snowboard materials store and will ship worldwide.

Thanks guys for all the input. It sounds like I will be trying either a card scraper or a mini spoke shave. Funny thing is, if it were 80yrs ago, we would have a slew of great woodworking hand tools to choose from...AND nylon wouldn't be invented until next year!

I should clarify, I am not talking about sidewall beveling. I am talking about strictly topsheet beveling. While sidewalls are often beveled between 3 and 30 degrees (from vertical), production skis often have an additional topsheet bevel of between 45 and 60 degrees (from vertical). Because this be...

What methods are people using to bevel their topsheets (if you choose to do so). I have been putting a 45 degree bevel on our topsheets using a combination of filing/scraping. I thought I was going to be able to do this with a small router, but the top of the ski has too many changing contours for a...

Love the Starry Nights! Great work...those are some good looking skis.

Wow, been busy and forgot to keep an eye on the thread. Knightsofnii, I was assuming it was for delam issues and the "smoothing out the ride" was just a line. Doesnt NS just use VDS though (for sidewall delam resistance), not this thick urethane layer? I just wonder how it is bonded in ord...

They seem like they would be a Never Summer ski - but no, it says Made in China. I was saying that thin VDS is probably cheaper than the thick urethane. Thick VDS is pricey.

MM, I agree - its definitely urethane. But do you think they just epoxy a strip of cured urethane onto the sidewall during the layup? The fact that it ends perfectly in line with the sidewall makes me think that that it is somehow pre-applied to the sidewall strips. If it were during wet layup, woul...