wow, those umpa lumpas are really cranking out those skis. nice work.

jason

very nice gentlemen, wish i had that much space. real sweet tools also. BK that must be the grizzly cabnet saw you mentioned before, they seem to make a nice tool for the money, i bought a 14" ultimate bandsaw with an extension block kit, i am very impressed with it so far. i would snap some pi...

big kam, really sweet looking skis as usual. cool to see that you are pushing the the standards of homebuilts with alum. and dampening layers to improve performance and edge hold, chatter, etc... can't wait for the full story and test of these planks. did you notice camber changes with your mold wit...

i agree with g-mans suggestions about reducing the cattrack length and lower cassette length. as g-man said, i also only extend the cassette and track past the length of the board about 4cm or so on each end and feel that this allows for better conformance into the tipblocks. the combination of this...

rockaukum, it looks to me like the distance from your cattrack to your mold is too large. i'm running 2" right now and it seems to be working really well. when i did the first test runs after finishing my press, the distance from track to bottom mold was 2 3/4" (with no board). at this dim...

wow, really nice. topsheets look really good, what are they? very evil indeed.

jason

i try to have 1mm to 2mm sidewall overhang over each side of the edges which works really well. as for how far in and deep of a relief needed i am still trying to figure out. i bought some profiled cores and need to profile my "sidesticks" which are maple strips bonded to uhmw so they matc...

i bet that works pretty well. i knew you had to be doing something special because the first tests i did the graphics were swimming around like little
fish and yours look nice and centered. i love superglue.

jason

rockaukum, yes, managed to get a truck spot. the graphic is a piece of lazerjet paper laminated in the board during layup. its a dan graf method that he used on one of his first boards. i take a sheet of smooth uhmw with mold release applied to it. before i start the layup (a couple hours) i brush s...

clean, clean as a whistle. can't wait to blow up your pm inbox with
1,000 questions about controllers and ssr's this summer.

jason

thanks guys for all the comments. i am really really happy with these boards. for the sidewall profile i used a 20deg. router bit from lindbe i ordered online. the graf site has a post by headmonkey that details the setup needed. there is a 45deg and 20deg cutter avail. the topcoat is a two part cle...

just finished these boards last week. look mom no plastic topsheets! carbon top laminates over triax glass with a sanded and polished two part clear PU topcoat. the topcoats were a lot of work until i figured out what i was doing and figured out a process that worked. same glass layups on both with ...

i have been running mine at 90 psi. it really depends on the distance your bladders have to inflate to contact the board. mine is set up at about 2"-2.5" so it really is not 90 psi due to the decreased surface area pressing on the board. iggy, press looks really good. if you need something...

i believe he was grinding the pins/rivets on the lower cassette to the proper height. it appears that they use pins to maintain core alignment
during pressing. later in the video it shows the pins again when he is loading the core onto the cassette, the core slips in between the pins.


jason

very interesting, to make things even more simple you could just use the standard mdf top and bottom molds with a little lateral reinforcement instead of the "plates", maybe this is what you were already talking about???