Compare these 2 issues with the dream I had the night before layup: I dreamt I forgot the hardener in the resin, noticing it when pulling the skis out of the press... That dream sucked! Happened to two of my buddies that they mixed hardener GL2 with hardener L instead of resin L, which sucks about ...

Hey Philipp thanks for your input. Yes I like doing things as well as I can - within reasons. I think we have a bit of a similar approach :) 1) The template: You glued a print on the wood, right? if that print isn't 100,00% staight your template will be unsymmetric. My method to make sure the templa...

It works well with the balsa cores. For denser woods I would probably use a planer for profiling and make the final pass on the sander.

Here is a short clip of the building process, including the vacuum infusion of the deck sheet:

https://youtu.be/o11Q4Iv7LuI

Let me know what you think and if you can think of smarter ways to do things...

U must consider. CUring at temprature prevents a resin poor lminate. At room temp you can press too much of the reain out leving a dry composite that is stiff but brittle nd prone to delam. It's not the first time I read things like that but in all the meachnical tests I have done on all different ...

interesting, first time I see someone using infusion to laminate skis. How do you adjust the flowspeed of the two flow fronts above and under the core? Do you use a topsheet on the skis or is that directly the laminate? at that weight assume there is no top sheet?

cheers, Reto

Did you ever damage the fiberglass layer of a ski with a rock strike? First thing that goes are the edges and sidewalls anyway and the toughness of the resin won't help much with that.

Yes you are certainly right about impact resistance and ultimate strength. But thats not really a concern in a ski. Stiffness of the resin is what you need to avoid buckling of fibers under compression loading. Ultimate strength is not relevant as the fibers under compression typically fail at an el...

OMG I love those boards! regarding the resin - most resins (at least the ones I'm aware of) will get less stiff with a higher curing temperature. The Glass transition temp will raise, which is important if the part is used at higher temperatures, but pretty useless for a snowboard/ski. So if you hav...

Akiwi wrote:

SleepingAwake wrote:They certainly look good! I have no idea how you make that many skis in such short amount of time!

I sleep awake.

They certainly look good! I have no idea how you make that many skis in such short amount of time!

Ok here is a picture of my dye cutter made from the utility knife blades as mentioned: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h74/retoaebischer/IMG_20170209_121453%20Kopie_zpselzmk9ji.jpg And the result: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h74/retoaebischer/IMG_20161202_165152_zpsz1v3hsrt.jpg The straight ...

I was told to put the carbon next to the wood in my layups - I never questioned the wisdom but it seems to work fine. I would always use a thin polyester or glass fleece inbetween carbon and the core as a tough transition layer. To avoid big shear stresses at the interface between different layers ...

Cool skis! I like the two tone sidewalls! What kind of material did you use for those? And how do you like the kingpin?

Well, the d200 is the flagship with the best performance and skiability. And for the base I made a dye cutter to cut out one "F". I basically just cut utility knife blades to length, glued them onto a board using super glue facing with the sharp side away from the board. To give it some mo...