yeah, but the QCM epoxy we've been using is viscous as syrup on an early February morning in northern Alberta

cool. looks like a pretty high end pricey board with all that carbon fiber and metal!

do you mean straight up by hand? or are you saying you don't want to buy a program.

if you don't want to buy a program, do a search for snocad

or google sketchup is free and easy.

sweet. definitely show us some pictures!!!

the profile is really up to you. here are some examples to get started with
http://www.skibuilders.com/howto/skicon/profiling.shtml

we don't do linear profiles on our cores. we have a 12mm section under boot.

you'd probably want to go closer to 12mm under boot if you're making skis. otherwise it will be very very soft.

as for the sandpaper, we don't use much. unless that how you're thinking your going to profile the core. in which case it will be very difficult to make two skis the same.

Excellent ! Way to go ! I'm gonna stop by at the pet shop after work... but I highly doubt they have this thermostat.. especially at the price on the website ! Thanks ! For a hot box you might want to invest a bit more in a PID and a more powerful heat source, such as a 1000W baseboard heater... ye...

had to host the pics myself, it wouldn't allow hotlinking http://students.washington.edu/kevinl3/Ski%20Pics/ski_building/DSC_2669.JPG http://students.washington.edu/kevinl3/Ski%20Pics/ski_building/DSC_2670.JPG but when it comes to hotboxing for skis, im not sure if these things will go to high enoug...

we have the same problem but we bring the resin inside the day of the layup and also put it in a bucket of HOT water to get it to warm up. i have no idea if a 100W bulb would be enough, but i've been reading about this same idea but for keeping beer fermenting at the correct temperature. one guy in ...

nice and wide, but your first pic doesn't work.

oh... now it does

are you going to inform them on why you think the topsheet didn't bond to the sides?

Yeah, definitely do the recess in the core. as for the depth, just like Montucky was saying we just test on some scrap wood with scrap edges and just make sure the flange is level with the wood by feel. we don't adjust for the vds or glass and my bases have been nice and flat.

hahaha cool. and was it a shopvac that you're using?

are you just using a single shopvac for the vacuum table? how did you calculate how many holes to put in the table?