Making the sidewall pouring mold Next, I create a mold for pouring the sidewalls. A bit of extra work, but imo worth it. I'm sometimes thinking of doing it like all the others, but well... more work, less PU used. The mold consists of a base, a polystyrol layer for creating the 0.8mm rabbet, and a ...

1) wont work I think.

2) seems sensible to me, also easy to do.

4) You could also think about Inserts if you have a perfect layup way - if core shifts just a little little bit, inserts are crap.

Hi, used the halftemplate method as well- But I had trouble imagining the final shape, so after seeing the complete template for the first time I did quite some adjustments on tip and tail. So for this ski, I decided to go full template again. A bit more work to start with, but you exactly see what ...

Hello, as some of my friends frequently ask me how I build my skis, it's time to make a detailed documentation of the next build. Building the ski template As I don't have a CNC router, I do create my ski template off the computer. Well, half way. I have written a small program that calculates the s...

Hi switzch, the core is not upside down in the mold. Bottom is on the bottom, top on top. That should untwist your thoughts :) 3) normal mold release which has to be removed completely after all this, otherwise it may harm bonding when pressing. So if using a mold release that stays liquid, the best...

If the epoxy you are using is liquid enough, just coat it with epoxy.

Hi goz, was waiting for this answer from you already :) I agree that a wider sidewall will be less prone to breaking. Well, I still want to have as much wood in my ski as possible. So my plan is to switch to SO Task 12 for the next pairs. More expensive resin but using less of it. Why? The wider the...

Hi, that's why I used 2 tetra paks for the 500g pot - 2 x 250g. Also because pouring is easier when the pot is only filled like 1/3rd or less. Will have to drink some more 2l tetra pak drinks like the pfanner green tea :) One thing I would like to control more but absolutely lack sensible ideas is h...

Hi, I'm mixing the resin in a round big plastic pot as well - 1kg yoghurt pot ;) After mixing I transfer it to the cut open tetra pak, as I can pour much more precise with the rectangular tetra pak (pouring it from one corner of the tetra pak). Don't want to buy any extra pots for mixing and pouring...

Hi, well, the main advantage is using less resin ;) Will also reduce the sidewall width a lot: In this ski it will be about 11mm, the next ski will only have about 5mm. => less resin, lighter ski. Will need about 300g resin per ski in future. Why I did it was because I didn't want to machine the woo...

Some more pics:

A bit messy after pouring :)





The sidewall with the rabbet, seen from below:





A part of the mold, the white polystyrol is 0.8mm thick

Hi, made my first successful cast :) What I did is a bit different than what most of you do: I finished the woodcore (shape and thickness), built a pouring mould and poured the sidewall in its end shape (well, some excess on top which is machined easily). Also have the 0.8mm rabbet for the edges pou...

Hi,

will build my next ski with exactly this material. If I like it I might take it if it is still available then.

Hey,

looked at it at a webshop today and had similar thoughts. Is this stuff really oily? The honeycomb material sold here is called aramid paper and make for laminating. Have a look at r-g.de

Cheers

Hi, first experience with a bigger pot of smooth on 310. Had in mind that the pot life was 20mins and was quite surprised that the pot turned into bright white after just 15 - of course before I poured it ;) Well, there is a german saying "wer lesen kann ist klar im vorteil" - who can read...