Hey stormyclouds boards are looking great. Just wondering what issues you've been having with the veneer topsheets? I tend to agree with you about durability, I've done a lot of veneer topsheets and they can look beautiful but i dont find them durable. Ive been adding a fairly large 45° angle to th...

Yeah Richie, he was pretty sore for a while from two decent off's he had. Plus after a week he mentioned that one included a pipe in the ground. I sat there dumbfounded that after talking about hitting a solid steel pipe he was still discussing build quality. Interesting point, I had made him the bo...

burnside - yeah I think that might be more his pace

Vinman - no, I don't anneal any of my edges. That edge is full hardness and in person you can see a definite shape to it, something solid has been impacted.

So I had a small problem with a board recently. A board I built for a mate (the one with the monkey image just recently) came with him on a trip to Japan over the last month. Well day 3 into the trip he starts complaining about his board falling apart, some other crap about maybe "proper built&...

There is one component I'm still searching for though. Has anybody found a local source for clear or satin finish topsheet material?
I've mainly used timber veneer but I'm looking for a thin clear film that can be used. The proper stuff online all ends up fairly expensive after freight is added.

Oh and to give you an idea of cost, ive built snowboard cores for $10 worth of timber more than a few times.
They are still going hard after 3 or 4 years now and ride like a dream.
Don't get caught up in hype of certain products. Care and attention to detail is more important.

Yeah why are you going for such expensive timbers? The impact of different timbers is marginal. Look at what is cheap locally and pick the best suited ones. Pine works fine, especially considering you will get it so cheap that you can hand pick each single stringer in your core so the grain is exact...

Dude! Awesome looking skis, but man you gotta get that core shifting issue under control. What are you doing to align your cores?
I always reckon keeping those basic parts of building as simple as possible is the best way.

I don't know about a 110cm board but lots of people have made short boards. Reverse sidecut is a bad idea on a short board. A 120 could be fun. The bad snow days you describe though are the days when a killer carve board is heaps of fun. Maybe a 130 with pretty much no tip or tail, just all edge and...

Sweet skis, nice details and finish.
Did you make the cores yourself? I'd be interested in seeing photos of them.

Trimmed up the latest board and cleaned up the edges and inserts. Looks pretty awesome, even if I do say so myself. Pretty damn happy with the finished product. A bit stiffer than I was expecting. I tried out a new resin and it has resulted in figures that would normally result in a very soft flex h...

I've not had the same issue as you have had, but I have had resin get under the base before and cause a rise that was hard to grind out. One thing you can do to greatly reduce the chances of it happening is to pre-preg your lower glass layer separate to the lay-up then bring it over and onto your la...

Dude you get hit with it no matter where you buy from. Skilab and snowboardmaterials.com both work out about the same once it adds up. I prefer the inserts at snowboardmaterials.com as the skilab ones arent threaded right to the bottom as neatly. Blank slate skis are pretty good for freight, their r...

I would be surprised if the bond isn't effected no matter what paint you use. You are filling the pores of the core with the paint so the resin won't be able to. It'll probably still bond well enough but it'll definitely change the final product. You'll probably soak up less resin and end up with a ...

Nah, i use a drag knife in my CNC. I've seen the kindred video of them doing it all by hand and that is pretty impressive, I'm not as patient so i guess I'm cheating a little but it works.