Duuude I love the top sheet! That is so sweet.

The Board looks sick! i also had to get creative in my last layup with my bag ripping. What kind of rice paper did you use for your graphics? The one I used seemed to be pretty thick and left a very clear ghosting (we figured it would happen and worked with it) but i want to try to get some more cl...

Nicely done! On mixing epoxy: mix as much as you want at the beginning, then divide it into multiple cups. You'll end up with the epoxy you need during layup without having to go back and keep mixing more. Standard red plastic party cups work great for this. Thanks! I’ll definitely be using that ep...

Sidewall jig.jpg Sidewall oops.jpg To add the sidewall bevel, I attempted to make a router jig. I wasn’t careful enough and ended up gouging the sidewall leaving a pretty good mark. I finished shaping the sidewalls with the handheld belt sander. Next time I plan to take my time and only use the bel...

Doodle.jpg Processed doodle.jpg Final graphic.jpg As you can see, I went with a clear base and top sheet. For graphics, I came up with some sharpie doodles. I just took a picture using my phone and increased the contrast/black point until it was black and white. I then printed the designs on some r...

Here is the board fresh out of the press! You can see on the base where the fiberglass
was not completely wetted. As well as the indents on the top sheet.

Mold.jpg The board was vacuum pressed. The vacuum mold consists of MDF ribs cut to give the board’s camber profile. A single rib template was cut and sanded, then using a flush trim router bit, 8 more were cut. If I were to make another mold, I’d make a solid mold instead of spacing the ribs. When ...

The base is a sintered base material purchased from snowboardmaterials.com. Like the core, an MDF template was created for the base. Using a flush trim bit, the base was cut. Gluing edges.jpg I went with a 3/4 wrap for the edges, ending at the tail. Using the base template, the edges were patiently ...

Spade bit.jpg Thru holes.jpg Holes were drilled for inserts using a 3/8” twist drill bit and a 3/4” spade bit. Both of which were dull. The holes on this board are embarassing but still worked. Going forward I will be buying forstner bits to ensure clean and precise holes. Rabbeted core.jpg Rabbet ...

Profiling Jig.jpg A router bridge was made of MDF to profile the core. The router follows the profile of the jig to give the core its thickness. I went with 6.5 mm between the feet and tapering down to 2 mm in the tip and tail. Thin split core.jpg Modified core tail.jpg I routed until I was within ...

When routing the core, a chunk was ripped from the nose. This was fixed using wood glue and sawdust as a wood filler. With the core outline cut, maple sidewalls were glued to the core. The sidewalls overhang the base and will be shaped after pressing the board.

Half template.jpg Full template.jpg The shape of the core is defined by an MDF template. I began by cutting a 1/2 template, referencing the straight edge of the MDF panel as the centerline. This ensured the template was symmetric about the centerline. After cutting and sanding the 1/2 template, the...

Ripped core strips.jpg The core blank consisted of 14, 3/4” poplar strips and 2, 1” maple strips down the center separated by a .57” poplar strip. The 1” maple strips support the inserts and add strength. The thin poplar strip centers the inserts in the maple strips while keeping them spaced at 40m...

IMG_7865.jpg Hey guys! I just finished my first board build. Having the resources on this forum along with countless YouTube videos has helped immensely. I’d like to share my first attempt at a DIY snowboard and potentially help others avoid the issues I had. I made plenty of mistakes along the way...