knightsofnii, Can you fill us in a little more on your "cap-wich" idea? Are you suggesting laminating a 2mm strip of tip/tail spacer to the exposed wooden sidewall? Edit: After rereading your post I think I understand now. I think you mean to actually have a "capped" ski where......

Carnold,

You mentioned:

"Vac bag the whole thing with a top plate (this is 4 layers of 3 mm mdf laminated in the mould)."

Can you explain what you're doing here? What is the mdf top plate?

I sand with 80-100 grit and then flame prior to vacuum bagging also. No problems thus far.

-Mark

I've been reading through all the plastic sidewall info...........trying to convince myself to go that route (as opposed to wooden sidewalls). I thought there was some good info in the TAP Plastics video here: http://www.tapplastics.com/info/video_detail.php?vid=21&format=quicktime& In it th...

do you use a cat track? when you say a small size.............how small?

I just found your press progress................Jeez, that's freakin' amazing!
Are you a rocket scientist in your spare time?

Really cool.

I've been vacuum bagging for a year now. A fire chief friend of mine just gave me a bunch of hose that is about 5" flat/deflated (maybe just a little wider) and so I'm thinking of building a pneumatic. I'm assuming it is about a 3" diameter hose when inflated. Is this hose worth using in a...

I've had issues with concave bases as well. I vacuum mold my skis...........and I think my concave bases are the result of not routering out the channel for the edge windows to sit into the core. I have been using simple posterboard to fill the "gap" with good results so far. I just take p...

I've been using linseed oil on all of my wooden sidewalls. cheap, works great, looks great, easy to apply/reapply, etc.

If I understood him correctly.........he was saying that they flame treat AFTER they sand. The flame treating is what makes the microscopic amorphous regions (or wax-accepting regions) of the sintered base material capable of absorbing wax. He said that the base material that is only "flamed&qu...

Thought I'd share this just in case someone needs the info. I was talking to a guy at Crown Plastics today. The base material that they provide comes sanded on (1) side and flame treated on (2) sides. The bottom (side that touches the snow) of the base material is only flamed in order to absorb wax....

My rocker starts about 35cm back of tip. My core thickness at this point is 4.5-ish mm thick. That's about half as thick as my thickest point (9-10mm -ish).

Hope that makes sense.

I'm not using heat at all. I'm vacuum bagging for 15 hrs. I'd like to be able to speed up the cure time............but I've had good luck so far with the "long" way, and my demand isn't that high yet. I've made a few skis with 8mm of camber in them. The mold for these skis has 18mm built i...

Quick ? for you guys. I'm building a mold for a rockered tipped ski. I'm gonna start the rocker about 35cm (back of tip) and continue to about a 60mm tip height. Should I design excess rocker height (in the mold) to allow for the finished ski's rocker to "settle" a bit. I've been adding an...

here it is:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Composi ... kateboard/

i'll have to find it again. it was a "how to make a composite skateboard" site.

i'd never heard of that before. i use acetone to clean my mold but the epoxy is already cured at that point. just wondering if there was any truth to the claim.

came across this on another site: "DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! Do NOT use Acetone to clean up Epoxy. Ever. Do Not Use Acetone To CLean Epoxy. EVER. Acetone gives epoxy a d...