Anyone ever try a “ceruse finish” on their veneer skis or boards? Like this guitar: https://www.reddit.com/r/Luthier/s/PgiC1uDit0 If you have, I would love to see your pics and hear your experiences and/or tips. I love the look. My thought is to do the finish on the veneer before pressing so the epo...

It’ll still make it stiffer but not by as much as having a 0 degree layer in the weave. Most race skis use titanol (it’s the trade name for an aluminum alloy, not titanium), which adds dampening and torsional stiffness. That’s probably the missing ingredient in my opinion. The added damping will mak...

not related to ski stiffness or the actual construction, but most race skis recommend somewhere around a 3/1 side/base edge bevel - and people sometimes use as high as 5 degrees on the side for slalom.

what bevel are you testing and have you tried re-tuning at various combos?

Got some shop upgrades goin (new wall mounted boiler made space for a couple new workbenches which was previously a piece of plywood on sawhorses): https://i.imgur.com/lDytpST.jpeg ...and a snowboard build! for a friend, so my personal snowboard project with the laser & dog is on hold again. her...

I've used coda a few times and the sublimations came out good. They're the only place I've had it done, so I don't have anyone else to compare it to. I probably would've used snowboard materials but they weren't offering it for a while.. sounds like they are again?

sure! boot would be centered on the narrowest part of the ski yeah, and % of the running length (not including tip & tail)

I'm making a few assumptions - one main one being that it's an all-mountain resort type ski because of the medium-wide midsection. Your narrowest point setback is further back than I'd place it personally for an all mountain cruiser, but your design might be good if you're leaning more towards a fro...

Thanks Guys!

Regarding the heat blanket I told them the dimensions, KW and voltage - they did the rest.

So I was experimenting with really small inlays today - some of the pieces are supposed to be a mm wide in areas, and I think I need to correct my answer about focus above. Well maybe. I haven’t really figured it out yet but I’m getting bigger gaps than I want. It happened on the rose skis too.. whe...

Thanks guys! Regarding the laser - the laser module sits on z rails and has some vertical position and focus dial adjustability, but tbh, I usually don’t mess with it (after having initially set it up) - I haven’t had an issue with switching between veneer and right on the ski. Id say it’s not a big...

Chrismp- That's strange - did you ever discover why you were getting warp right off the cnc? I use a 1/8" spiral upcut bit to cut the core material and make sure to let it rest with weight on it until it sits pretty much flat on its own before cutting. I finished my next build! here's a couple ...

Thanks for the tip! Yeah, I've had some trouble in the past with warped bases - at some point a handful of builds ago I discovered the issue I was having - the base itself actually remains the correct shape and matches my core with sidewalls - I do make sure to get the edges onto the base in the sam...

So it's been a long summer but winters back and so is ski building here at my house! here's my latest build - it's actually another 170 cm all mountain pair - pretty much the same shape I've made before (I really enjoy the shape!) - here's the specs: length: 1700 mm Running Length: 1450 mm Tip/Waist...

yeah I agree with chrismp - in addition to his question - are you providing a way to "bleed" excess epoxy? think of how a typical ski squeezes excess expoxy out the sides when pressed - these could also be epoxy pockets from excess having nowhere to go.

Yeah I think what Matt is saying is how most people do it. that's how I do it too. I'm assuming the BOF you're referring to is boot offset?