We have done some test on the subject using vertically laminated balsa, the sealed laminate was actualy heavier than the not sealed one and a little bit more prone to delamination.

3 seasons on his shoulder and my Escape 117 still rock! 193 cm 145-117-134 Powlonia-ash core, 150 g/m^2 CF UD and 650 g/m^2 GF Triax top and bottom. Is Stiff and don't forgive but i still like it. https://scontent.fmxp3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17358536_1502542749765412_1642541834420598636_o.jpg?_n...

chrismp wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 5:34 am

Lerio wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 12:35 pm They are molded during layup, screws are "a bit structural" but they don't do much, I sand and etch the stailess steel and it bond insanely well.

What do you use to etch the metal?

1 part of cloridric acid (30%) and 2 part of hydrogen peroxide (130 vol.) at 45°C for 10 minutes

Hannes wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:01 pm Those skis look really great. I am working in a similar ski with B-COMP-core as well. Whats your coreprofile?

Profile of the core is 2.5-11.7-2.5

Nice work, those look excellent! I also like the tip protectors :) I'm curious about how they're applied. Are they molded in with the ski during layup (and then, are the screws just ornamental), or are they applied afterwards and held in by the screws? If it's the later, do you have a template you'...

skidesmond wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 2:50 pm How’s the flex? I like the tip proctectors. Did you machine the entire piece?

The Skis are actually too stiff in the tip area, I will thin them down a bit.
Protectors and all my temeplates are laser cutted by an external company, I send them the CADs and in one week I recive the pieces... Magic!

very impressive, both tool chain and results! could you elaborate a little on your core profiling process, as shown in the second video? That machine looks really nice... For profiling I use an horizontally mountend bandsaw with a 14 teeth per inch blade, the feed sistem works with a small motor. I...

And these are some of the building steps... https://www.facebook.com/valerio.chietti/videos/vb.100000291030708/2256974767655536/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab https://www.facebook.com/valerio.chietti/videos/vb.100000291030708/2266616506691362/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab https://...

About 3 years after the first ski pressed this is where I am. Top to bottom: Screen printed nylon topsheet 150 g/m^2 UD carbon 120 g/m^2 UD flax 350 g/m^2 biax flax bComp balsa-flax core - birch binding reiforcement - abs sidewall 350 g/m^2 biax flax 150 g/m^2 UD carbon isosport 7200 base - laser cu...

Noshaq wrote:What Im thinking right now is to glue some inserts in (probably in all holes even the good ones on both skis) and overlay this crack with another layer of carbon. (or flax?)

I have drilled new holes and I put in metal inserts with epoxy. I still using it.

Noshaq wrote:

Pawlonia is way too soft for binding retention, I tested it on my own skin. Fiber layer cracked 'cause practically was the only thing that hold in plase the screws.

Ok, so epoxy ink is the way to go. What about the techniqe, what is the best way to put it on the topsheet?

I would like to using sublimation for my grafics but before start building all the stuff needed I want to find the best way to create a white background. In my firsts attempts I laminate the topsheet with 2 layers of 40g/m^2 of FG using a resin mixed with a white pigment at 5% (max allowed), on top ...

Few days ago we pressed our first ski, here some tech info: dimension: 132-102-122 lenght: 1825 mm core dimension: 2,5-10,5-2,5 core construction: vertical laminated powlonia-ash with UHMWPE sidewall epoxy resin: Entropy CPM from top to bottom: PBT topsheet 300g/m^2 biaxial carbon 750g/m^2 triaxial ...

chrismp wrote:I think you'll be fine with 1300w then...it's hard to tell for sure though.

Anyway 1300W is the max I can get.

Insulation and hope for the best