twizzstyle wrote:I use Mach3 on my router Mike, I'll try to get out to the shop sometime this week and give your test programs a run.

Sweet, thanks man!

The SB3 shopbot control software is free and you can download and run in preview mode to see if it works. Or I can test it for you. Yea, I've downloaded it. The programs without circles sim properly, but I've found with my controller that there are sometimes issues even with programs that sim prope...

I tested the first six programs out of MonkeyCAM today on an old scrap core blank, and made a few updates. In addition to working on my controller (a really old DeskCNC) they load and sim properly in Mach 3, too. It would be groovy if someone who uses Mach 3 could pull up the sample programs and giv...

I've added some sample output of the program here: https://github.com/mikemag/MonkeyCAM/tr ... ple-output

Around 2003 or so I built my own CNC machine specifically for snowboard construction. I started off using BobCADCAM and it was a pain in the ass. Being a software developer, I decided to start making my own program to generate G-code programs for snowboards and I called it MonkeyCAM. I ended up work...

This post contains the current status of MonkeyCAM and will be kept up to date. Last updated for v4.0.6. MonkeyCAM v4.0 is an open source CAD/CAM program for designing skis and snowboards, and generating G-code programs to cut board parts with a CNC machine. It is free to use for personal and comme...

sammer wrote: As far as heat goes I'm thinking about a reznor unit heater
like this, 60k btu separated combustion.
http://www.totalhomesupply.com/60000-BT ... udas60.htm

I've got that Reznor and highly, highly recommend it.

The new shop looks fantastic. Nice job!!

My bow is in my stack of 1 x 4s , than I re saw into 4 snowboard core halves. It shows up after clamping, but becomes obvious when i lay two halves side by side on a flat surface and the edges are bowed. The fix is to joint a bunch of material off, or just clamp the piss out of it...which has been ...

That’s interesting... I have not noticed that with my veneer boards, but it’s fairly even humidity where I live year round. I have read and been told many times that in traditional woodworking, when you apply veneer to a panel (like, say, 1/2" or 1/4" plywood) that you should always apply ...

Yes, the curved MDF with the holes is indeed a template to cut curves in the veneer. It's a 21m arc or so, with holes to make it a bit lighter and easier to handle. A sharp eye will note the holes are not along the centerline of the form... a mistake I corrected in subsequent templates. Quoted from ...

Yea, there are lots of ways to do it. The primary goal is to show the amount of glue to use, which would be the same. Personally I’ve always done it “teeth up” (or “running surface down” if you like). I bend my edges by hand, and I work from the center outward and do 1/4 of the perimeter at a time, ...

I was talking with some nice guys about just this topic last weekend. After chatting with them, and seeing your post yesterday, I decided it would be a good topic for a video. Hopefully this makes it really clear!

Hey guys, it's been a while since I've posted anything to the forum (or really read the forum much :() so I figured it was time for an update. I've been playing with veneer a bit more lately. Bought a reasonable selection from Edensaw in the fall. I did a simple multi-piece layup on a snowboard, and...

Here's what I use: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... outer_Bits

You want to use bits designed for wood, not metal which is what your typical endmill is for.

I'll do more research on the modified nippers; I think I remember seeing something around here that involved cutting a small trench with a dremel so the tang of the edges would fit. Here you go: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/MonkeyWiki/Edge_Benders I avoided making a nipper tool for a long t...