Regarding "too soft": this is less a camber issue than your layup. Camber more changes how actively the ski engages into the new turn, but hardly changes how soft or hard a ski feels. My skis were always hard enough but sometimes lacked edge grip in icy conditions. I fixed this by reducing...

Hi, unfortunately, my new touring ski has way too much camber. But they are pretty soft. So I came up with an Idea: I could make my mould have full rocker shape, and then press some additional uni carbon on top. This would mean that this additional layer tries to "pull" up the ski into a f...

Hi, after achieving good results with more Biax ( http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6264 ) to achieve more edge grip on icy conditions, I want to further increase Biax and reduce Uni fibres. As I want to keep the stiffness about the same, it would be very interesting to know how much...

There is also skibaumarkt.de - a german supplier offering Bcmop flax products. I use them im all my skis and love the dampening they add.

After building the ski with additional 320g/m² Biax glass, there definitely is a good improvement to the edge grip. Even in icy conditions, I really like how the edges grip. So for me, more Biax (and hence increased torsional stiffness) did the job!

Hi, as the tip section is longer than the tail section, taking the real middle isn't sensible - the center of the camber will be way too much forward. If you want a "centered" camber, use contact point to contact point (the points where the ski "lay" on a flat surface). Most skis...

Hi, if you want an egde around the tip, it will be easier to make this way. As I said, bending a single edge around the tip is really hard. Usually, the edge twists a bit when its bent, meaning that the teeth of the edge are not "flat" with the tip, As you are starting to build skis: just ...

Hi,

what do you mean with "true center"?

best regards

Hi, Edges around the tip: Almost everyone here only partly wraps the edges around the tip, because bending them precisely around the tip is very difficult indeed. I would "stop" the edge quite close to the tip, before the real narrow bend around the tip would be. Veneer: thicker veneer add...

Hi, I am always using a single layer of 300g/m² uni flax directly below the top sheet - this is how bcomp (the manufacturer of the flax fabrics I use) recommends it. It really has a great dampening effect like this. The carbon I am using is differently from ski to ski, but mostly 300g/m³ triax with ...

Hi, some things come to my mind regarding the weight: I don't think your skis are heavy regarding their surface area. if you want to use it as touring skis, then yes, they are a bit heavy. You could try to add some lighter wood (e.g. paulownia) to your wood mix. Poplar soaks liquids quite well. In y...

Yes, thats a different way to do this. But what I am wondering: Did some of you do this? If so, did you like the result?

Hello Skibuilders, I am starting to build some pairs for next winter. Mostly, they are very sportive on-piste skis (66mm underfoot, 72mm underfoot, 84mm underfoot). I tested previous builds as well as serveral factory skis on my workbench. One thing I noticed: When taking the foot area as "zero...

When I worked in a ski service, we used a plastic ski wax scraper and ran it over the stone after re-structuring with the diamond. You feel "leftover" stone at once with the scraper, and with modest pressure you can take the "leftover" off. This helped, but it does not guarantee ...

Hello Alan, a 1.5mm gap is definitely way too much, especially for a race ski. It seems the one ski is either a faulty production or it was damaged somehow. I would definitely send the skis back to the reseller and get your money back. I am pretty sure Atomic will back up this opinion. I would not t...