I use a diy router table with the router mounted below the table at the desired sidewall angle. The bit I use is a rather large (20mm = roughly 3/4") with a follower bearing at the shaft end (often called pattern bit or flush trim bit). The table surface has a bump perpendicular to the router bit on...

Looking great! You can use the spindle sander to bevel the sidewalls, but you should be careful not to grind into the top part of the edge too much as with the spindle sander you are lacking the follower bearing of a router bit running along the edges.

No worries, glad you were able to solve it!

Have you tried searching the forum or the internet in general? This would have been easy to find.

You can find all the info you need on this here: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... o_the_base

Definitely epoxy. From the looks of it you will need to cut out the damaged parts of the base and the edges too, otherwise the repair patch base material will sit higher than the ground down part of the edges.

gav is right, extruded base does absorb wax. Isosport lists a wax absorption of 1.4 g/m3 for one of their black extruded bases and a comparable black sintered base is listed with 1.9 g/m3. Unfortunately, they don't give any comparable numbers on the speed of the bases. They only state that sintered ...

You can just grind down two sides of the flanges of the Junksupply inserts like the flanges on the welding nuts. This will free up some space so you can get the inserts close enough and the flat flange sides will also add some resistance against twisting. Doing this takes only a few seconds on a ben...

We use larger scraps as squeegees to spread epoxy during layups.

You are right, neither carbon fiber nor flax are see through. Only fiberglass turns transparent when wet out with resin. A wood veneer topsheet is a great option to get the wood look and still use carbon and/or flax. You could also use a sheet of wood veneer with transparent base material. However, ...

There is not one best cad program for ski design. You could design skis with pretty much any cad software, so I would recommend to go with something you either already know or something that's easy to learn if you have no experience with cad software. Cost is usually also a factor, which makes good ...

I really like that mold design! You might want to do a bigger round over on the tip/tail mold pieces to put a little less stress on the vacuum membrane.

I just did this test on a few big brand production skis we have lying around in our shop and some of them showed the same behaviour, so I wouldn't worry about this too much. However, I think this comes down to the flex profile of the ski. My guess is that if the cambered part of the ski is rather st...

I would try to get some glue into the crack and clamp it back together.

I don't see the problem...with the right epoxy pigments you can mix pretty much any color with the white base ink.

You can get smaller quantities at https://www.skibaumarkt.de/en/product/s ... ke-berlac/