Ski Builders Forum

I had one of those fabric sleeve presses with sleeves made by montucky madman (thank you!). Pressing with the sleeves worked very well, but it was a pain to get the sleeves onto the press. Maybe if you cover the press in some low friction plastic material it would work better.

If it's lightweight you could also use it right under a plastic topsheet to avoid the texture of the non-woven fiberglass layers to print through.

That might work. I would try to use a resin that has pretty high viscosity, so it doesn't seep into the pores as easily. Probably a good idea to do this right before pressing and start pressing once the resin started to gel and gets tacky. That way the epoxy for the reinforcement layers has a good b...

Afaik cotton chips are usually only used when bonding materials with no reinforcement fibers in between that hold the resin. E.g. they are used for glueing wood that would otherwise soak up the resin and leave a dry bond. I don't think it would add a noticeable advantage in a ski though.

What epoxies are available, usually depends on where you are located. Try to get some West System 105 with the 209 extra slow hardener.

Awesome! My most recent build is a wide board as well and I love it...it's a 151 park board with 265mm center width (still not nearly as wide as yours).

Nice! Always good to see people using local woods to make their cores!

This depends on how you plan to make your cores. Your goal is to have the grain running the lenght of the core as straight as possible with the grain being vertical in the ski core. I often buy plain sawn wood that I glue up into a large core block with the grain running horizontally over the width ...

You will probably not find any study that gives a comprehensive overview on this topic as it is way too complex. Stiffness of a ski is affected by many factors (e.g. core thickness, reinforcement layers, length and width, etc.) that all work together as a system. Even for big manufacturers that have...

Lerio wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 26, 2019 12:35 pm

They are molded during layup, screws are "a bit structural" but they don't do much, I sand and etch the stailess steel and it bond insanely well.

What do you use to etch the metal?

www.r-g.de and www.hp-textiles.com are both German shops that have what you need.

Using a downcut router bit can help with that problem too.

A lot of the bells and whistles you see in consumer skis and snowboards have been put there in order to achieve something that can often be achieved in a much simpler way, but they use it anyway because it's easier for marketing. Just keep that in mind when looking at websites of big brands. You can...

I think he wants to only place the cork as inlays a couple millimeters deep. He probably got the idea from Capita Snowboards...to be honest, I am not entirely convinced either that it really does improve on the ride.

The build threads are a good starting point. As you are new to this, make sure you read the entire wiki written by HappyMonkey here: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... Main_Page . It is a great resource and gives you an idea on what's involved in building a snowboard.