Ski Builders Forum

I can't help you with the dimensions, but for skibuilding supplies in Europe, check out www.skibaumarkt.de/en

I think they wanted to say "damping".

That is most probably not just pure cork, but a mix of rubber and cork. Capita uses this stuff in some of their park boards (Ultrafear model) as well and it holds up fine (a friend of mine rides one with countless park laps on it). We also received some samples of the rubber cork from the manufactur...

I sent you a PM

In snowboards a biax layup usually refers to 0/90° fibers and not +45/-45°. That way you get a board that has some stiffness mainly along its length but is torsonally soft.

I don't recall the exact overlap of the fabric. I think it was About 1" to 1.5". Maybe Montucky remembers what he has sewn for me :) For the resin I used Adiprene LF 950A. I wouldn't recommend using that one though as it is a pain to get bubble free without special equipment and the pot life is way ...

The overlapping box stitches were done by MontuckMadman for me. I simply coated the whole inside of the fabric tube with flexible polyurethane resin and then clamped the open ends shut with iron bars. I can't remember the exact pressure it started leaking, but I think it held up fine up to my usual ...

I had one of those fabric sleeve presses with sleeves made by montucky madman (thank you!). Pressing with the sleeves worked very well, but it was a pain to get the sleeves onto the press. Maybe if you cover the press in some low friction plastic material it would work better.

If it's lightweight you could also use it right under a plastic topsheet to avoid the texture of the non-woven fiberglass layers to print through.

That might work. I would try to use a resin that has pretty high viscosity, so it doesn't seep into the pores as easily. Probably a good idea to do this right before pressing and start pressing once the resin started to gel and gets tacky. That way the epoxy for the reinforcement layers has a good b...

Afaik cotton chips are usually only used when bonding materials with no reinforcement fibers in between that hold the resin. E.g. they are used for glueing wood that would otherwise soak up the resin and leave a dry bond. I don't think it would add a noticeable advantage in a ski though.

What epoxies are available, usually depends on where you are located. Try to get some West System 105 with the 209 extra slow hardener.

Awesome! My most recent build is a wide board as well and I love it...it's a 151 park board with 265mm center width (still not nearly as wide as yours).

Nice! Always good to see people using local woods to make their cores!

This depends on how you plan to make your cores. Your goal is to have the grain running the lenght of the core as straight as possible with the grain being vertical in the ski core. I often buy plain sawn wood that I glue up into a large core block with the grain running horizontally over the width ...