Ski Builders Forum

This stuff is often called "fused carbon". Here is an Australian shop (with reasonable worldwide shipping on smaller items) that carries a variety of tapes: https://shapers.com.au/non-woven-tapes/ ... ing&page=1

What mammuth said. Everything you're asking has been discussed on here before.

Putting the veneer underneath the glass will make it easier to place, but it will make the ski less stiff as the distance between the reinforcements is decreased.

The picture you posted is exactly what most people do. Search the forum and you will find a few solutions on how to position the core exactly in relation to the base (for skis I usually drill two holes in the core and superglue short dowels to the base that go into the holes in the core). The method...

Have a look at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rucnWG8mWv4&list=PL34695342B698FC80&index=3&t=0s Many of the tools and techniques you see in there are a cheap and easy way to build a ski/snowboard. If you use proper materials for skis (base, edges, etc), then you should be able to make a ...

Are you milling a notch on the core? That is exactly what most people do. If you search the forum for "rabbet" (the term for such notch), you will find some more info. Another option is to use some filler fitted between the edges that is the exact height of the edge Tangs. I think someone on here h...

Buying back your own work?

I can't help you with the dimensions, but for skibuilding supplies in Europe, check out www.skibaumarkt.de/en

I think they wanted to say "damping".

That is most probably not just pure cork, but a mix of rubber and cork. Capita uses this stuff in some of their park boards (Ultrafear model) as well and it holds up fine (a friend of mine rides one with countless park laps on it). We also received some samples of the rubber cork from the manufactur...

I sent you a PM

In snowboards a biax layup usually refers to 0/90° fibers and not +45/-45°. That way you get a board that has some stiffness mainly along its length but is torsonally soft.

I don't recall the exact overlap of the fabric. I think it was About 1" to 1.5". Maybe Montucky remembers what he has sewn for me :) For the resin I used Adiprene LF 950A. I wouldn't recommend using that one though as it is a pain to get bubble free without special equipment and the pot life is way ...

The overlapping box stitches were done by MontuckMadman for me. I simply coated the whole inside of the fabric tube with flexible polyurethane resin and then clamped the open ends shut with iron bars. I can't remember the exact pressure it started leaking, but I think it held up fine up to my usual ...

I had one of those fabric sleeve presses with sleeves made by montucky madman (thank you!). Pressing with the sleeves worked very well, but it was a pain to get the sleeves onto the press. Maybe if you cover the press in some low friction plastic material it would work better.

If it's lightweight you could also use it right under a plastic topsheet to avoid the texture of the non-woven fiberglass layers to print through.