I think most people start with a linear taper as its simple and usually works well, but there is no right or wrong here. As for your question on the tools to use for profiling the core, CNC works well, but sometimes has its challenges for workholding. If you search for "profiling" on this ...

That's definitely the secret sauce and cannot easily be described as there are so many factors playing into this. Large manufacturers usually only offer one core profile per length and give a rather broad range of weight recommendations. If you're on the lower end of the weight recommendations a ski...

Welcome to the forum! As you already noticed, there is no real formula to this. I would highly recommend going with something simple for your first layup, that is proven to work. Like using the same triax glass top and bottom with a core type that has been used and documented on here before. For thi...

Welcome to the forum! What an introduction! Congrats on your first pair of skis. A couple tips for your next pair that work for me at least: - instead of double sided tape use spray glue to keep the bases in place. This doesn't leave and indent. - for beveling the sidewalls I would recommend to use ...

PS: Sandwichtechskis sells everything you need except for the cores (inserts and magnetic caps are sold separately https://sandwichtechskis.com/inserts-and-caps.html ) As for the core material, I believe that the stuff you were using is probably ISOSPORT's ISOCORE material https://www.isosport.com/e...

Great to have you back! Being located in Europe, I cannot really help you with sourcing materials in the US, but you could try the Snowboard Builders Group over on Facebook here https://www.facebook.com/groups/snowboardbuilders. It's more active than the forum, so you'll increase your chances

Ohh, that's too bad. For your nerves, once the mixed epoxy is spread out on the ski, the working time will increase as the thin layer doesn't kick off as fast as a larger batch, so you can take your time with mixing the next batch. Only if it already started heating up in the mixing cup and you stil...

Looking good!

For the epoxy heating up, this can also happen if you mix too large of a batch and leave it for too long. To mitigate this, I usually prepare three cups of resin without hardener and add the required hardener and mix as I wet out the layers.

With vacuum there's not enough pressure to cause an imprint on the base. Plus he has a sheet of hardboard and the metal sheet from the cassette placed over the ribs, which is plenty to avoid any imprints with vacuum. In a pneumatic press, especially when using heat, more layers would be required.

Nice one! Looks like it came out great!

What type of press do you have? With vacuum it might become an issue.

I wouldn't be too concerned with cupping in the tips of the final core as the wood is so thin that it will easily press into shape and stay flat. What I'm worrying about is how you will profile a cupped core blank to the correct thickness. Depending on your profiling method, you'll need to make sure...

For smaller areas that are away from the edged of a board, it is usually fine to just use water based acrylic colors (like Posca pens). However, if you plan on using color on a large area, i would definitely recommend using epoxy based inks/colors. What you could test is if it's possible to use wate...

Do you plan on doing a drawing over the full base, or just smaller parts of it? PS: you can definitely paint on the base with the right kind of paint. Epoxy based screen printing inks are probably the way to go (a lot of snowboard manufacturers screen print their bases or at least backflood sublimat...

Love the carbon topsheet board!

The printed graphics look top notch as well! Do you print them yourself? I'm guessing you're using sublimation - if so, I would love to see the setup (printer, press) you use